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Unsorted Routes:

Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA:  Mark Tjaden, Stewart Green
Season: Winter works well.
Page Views: 1,856
Submitted By: Matt Strauser on Dec 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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View from the anchors.


This face climb works left, then back right and then up to the anchors. The crux between the 6th and 7th bolt can be avoided by climbing to the left and then traversing right to clip the last bolt.


This route is on the Piggy Bank Wall between Pinon Slalom and Ladies Night In Buffalo.


7 bolts to a ledge with high anchors above.

Photos of Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Craig in the Brothel.
Craig in the Brothel.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave having fun in The Brothel.
Dave having fun in The Brothel.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Brothel.
BETA PHOTO: The Brothel.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Unsaid on the left, and Pinon Slalom on the ri...
BETA PHOTO: The Unsaid on the left, and Pinon Slalom on the ri...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sadie leading The Unsaid.
Sadie leading The Unsaid.

Comments on Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 29, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Well protected and fairly straightforward climbing all the way to the anchors.
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 16, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This climb reminded me of "old school" bolting, where they are spaced out a little more widely but placed where you need them. The bottom is slabby like climbing on granite.

If you are used to clipping a bolt before the hard moves (with the bolt above and the rope above you (a "top rope")), this is not that kind of route. But it is still well protected.
By LmsCo
May 14, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A much better choice for the 5.8 leader than Ladies Night in Buffalo to the left, despite what the guidebook says. This one is casual, especially if you head straight up and then traverse right to the 7th bolt.

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