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Jungle Gym Area
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Alchemy Left 
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Left of Spire 
Little Arete 
Riding Rough on Helen Reddy 
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Spire, The 
Stemin' Monkey 
Unruly Macaque 
Well-disciplined Monkey 

Unruly Macaque 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mickey Hazelwood
Season: all year
Page Views: 553
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Oct 28, 2009
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This is a great, pumpy pitch which climbs a severely overhanging wall, then continues up a steep face with small pockets. It shares the first 3 bolts with Well-disciplined Monkey, and then continues on the right bolt line above the overhang (Well-disciplined Monkey goes left, which is apparently a bit easier). The technical crux is probably getting to the first bolt (recommend clip stick), or turning the lip of the overhang (here there is an inobvious solution which mitigates the difficulty somewhat), but the whole thing is pumpy. The upper face stays challenging and does not have great rests. Formerly one had to traverse to the anchors on Well-disciplined Monkey, but now the better option is to continue straight up and merge with the new route to the right (Spider Monkey), eventually reaching anchors after 70-80 feet.


This is the right of two routes that share the first 3 bolts on the "30 foot overhanging wall" noted in the area description. The left branch is Well-disciplined Monkey. See photo of Well-disciplined Monkey on the main Jungle Gym Area page.

Just to the right is the new route Spider Monkey, which merges with Unruly Macaque up high.


Fully bolted; clip-stick would be nice.

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