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This is a great, pumpy pitch which climbs a severely overhanging wall, then continues up a steep face with small pockets. It shares the first 3 bolts with Well-disciplined Monkey
, and then continues on the right bolt line above the overhang (Well-disciplined Monkey
goes left, which is apparently a bit easier). The technical crux is probably getting to the first bolt (recommend clip stick), or turning the lip of the overhang (here there is an inobvious solution which mitigates the difficulty somewhat), but the whole thing is pumpy. The upper face stays challenging and does not have great rests. Formerly one had to traverse to the anchors on Well-disciplined Monkey
, but now the better option is to continue straight up and merge with the new route to the right (Spider Monkey
), eventually reaching anchors after 70-80 feet.
Fully bolted; clip-stick would be nice.