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North Peak, East Face
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Unrelenting Verticality 

Unrelenting Verticality 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Herb Laeger, Eve Uiga, Charlie Rollins
Page Views: 893
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 11, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Unrelenting verticality. One of my favorite 5.9s a...

Description 

Climb the steep right leaning crack to a small tree. Good stances. The crux is near the start.


Location 

Right leaning diagonal crack just to the right of Finger Stinger.


Protection 

Used to be rated R, but not in the latest guidebook. Moves near the ground are harder to protect, but with modern gear, it protects fine.



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Really fun route!!
Really fun route!!
Unrelenting Verticality
Unrelenting Verticality
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By A Terray
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 26, 2012

I would rate this climb R, for sure. Placed a critical nut in the lower section to protect crux moves and as I climbed past, I realized the nut was behind a loose chock (did not realize this before). There were no other placements and at this point you're about 15' off the deck with a very bad landing. Be ready to climb 5.9 crux moves with no gear for this one.

By Clinton Miller
Apr 30, 2012

Sustained with serious start! A reasonable lead for a climber familiar with Seneca 5.9-5.10. Don't let its reputation keep you from giving it a try!

By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

I hesitate to call this 5.9 and not give it a "+". It is quite sustained and lives up to its name, with just one decent rest in the middle. Is any one move harder than 5.9? Possibly. But it is Seneca. There is definitely a "don't blow it here" section which just happens to be in the low crux section. The upper crux is just pure fun.

At the base of the crack/start of crux you can place a #3 C4 which is bomber. The back two lobes will be closed down more than the front two, but each set will be equal which is acceptable.

Awesome route with fantastic moves...unrelenting for sure.