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Torres del Brujo
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Uno Poco de Patagonia T 

Uno Poco de Patagonia 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Uhlig, Veit
Season: Summer
Page Views: 548
Submitted By: David Trippett on Apr 19, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Route Marked #2 is "Uno Poco de Patagonia&quo...

Description 

Poco de Patagonia tackles the central system of dihedrals on the smaller (350m) Aprendiz del Brujo. The first ascentionists rated this climb 5.10+, but it is no doubt 5.11.

8-10 pitches of sustained 5.10/.11 crack climbing that is reminiscent of the Rostrum in Yosemite(including a burly off-width). There are two distinct cruxes: The top of pitch one has a section of delicate and technical face climbing and pitch 5 is a long 50m corner with a thin fingers/tips section at the top(See Video in area section for some footage of this amazing pitch).

5 double raps return you to the bottom. The descent is easy, follow the route of ascent.

One of the best routes I've ever climbed and worth every star.

Location 

Central Dihedral system of Aprendiz del Brujo

Protection 

Double rack from tips to #5, Wires, 10 slings.


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