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 ADVANCED
S Crags
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Airborn to New Time Zone T 
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Every Picture Tells a Story T 
Glenfiddich Regrets T 
Leaving America T 
Milky Way, The T 

Leaving America 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 770', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Andy Ross, Shingo Ohkawa Paul Ross, Gene Vallee, Russ Austin 5th March 2013 (Var Leads)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 295
Submitted By: USBRIT on Mar 10, 2013

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Lads on Top

Description 

Climbs the buttress to the left of the climb Glenfiddich Regrets to finish up the castle like summit just to its south. Another alpine adventure! About a 20Mins walk from the trucks...A final gesture of mostly a Salt Lake team to steer an aging pioneer to one of his last first ascents in the US before his return to his native land.Starts up a blunt ridge via a right facing groove.

P1)Up the right facing corner to a big ledge 5.6+ 170'
P2)Scrample up a right facing corner for 200'5.0.
P3)Nice pitch. Up a short chimney to big block ,over this then up the groove.past one bolt to good ledge at 170' 5.8-
P4) Easy climbing to a ledge below the summit tower 150'5.0.
P5) On the right of the ledge enter a groove via tricky moves at the start then continue past a total of three bolts to a fine summit ..Register in small cairn .

Descent:- Rap on one good bolt on easy ground to the south. Then scramble down over to the left (north) to find double anchors. Single rope rap. Then double rope rap down P3 . Scramble down to top of P1,then scramble right again to double anchors and single rope rap to the ground.


Location 

S Crags section . Buttress to the left (south) of Glenfiddich Regrets climb. see topos


Protection 

Cams 1/2" to 3"... Stoppers. Two 60m ropes



Photos of Leaving America Slideshow Add Photo
Beer at the base...what else?
Beer at the base...what else?
Andy on P1
Andy on P1
A)Summit of unnamed B)Climbers on the summit of Glenfiddich Regrets
BETA PHOTO: A)Summit of unnamed B)Climbers on the summit of Gl...
Higher on P1
Higher on P1
Russ top of P1
Russ top of P1
Tele photo .. Chaps on top. photo Goodman
BETA PHOTO: Tele photo .. Chaps on top. photo Goodman
Shingo on P3
Shingo on P3
Paul scrabbling the starting moves of P5. Note 1984 shoes
Paul scrabbling the starting moves of P5. Note 198...
Paul topping out on P3
Paul topping out on P3
More Lads on Top
More Lads on Top
Paul P4
Paul P4
A) The Climb
BETA PHOTO: A) The Climb
On big ledge below summit tower
On big ledge below summit tower
Camp at two Fingers. Photo Goodman
Camp at two Fingers. Photo Goodman
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