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This climb hosts a tricky crux right below the chains. I won't spoil it for you here.
Between Fancy Dancin' and Harding's Other Chimney. The climb begins at the point that the trail around Middle Spire levels out. You'll see the bolted anchors on the headwall above.
Small to medium sized gear.
By Joshua Wise
From: Mountain View, CA
Apr 18, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
I think it's an easier lead than Tyro's Test Piece -- my first trad lead, it was, anyway! Good placements most of the way up. Crux is indeed thought provoking, but is easily protectable with either Camalots or Tri-cams (if you hate your second). Perhaps a little bit easier than 5.6?