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Middle Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anal Sex T 
Candyass T 
Candyland T 
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 
Clam, The T 
Cockabooty T 
Corn Flakes T 
Fancy Dancin' T,S 
Hard Up T 
Harding's Other Chimney T 
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 
Lean And Mean T 
Leaner and Meaner T 
Over Easy T 
Penny Candy S 
Prow, The S 
Rain Song S,TR 
Regular Route T 
Slowdancer T 
Tyro's Test Piece T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed T 

Unnamed 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 94
Submitted By: Josh Cameron on Aug 31, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb hosts a tricky crux right below the chains. I won't spoil it for you here.

Location 

Between Fancy Dancin' and Harding's Other Chimney. The climb begins at the point that the trail around Middle Spire levels out. You'll see the bolted anchors on the headwall above.

Protection 

Small to medium sized gear.


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By Joshua Wise
From: Mountain View, CA
Apr 18, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I think it's an easier lead than Tyro's Test Piece -- my first trad lead, it was, anyway! Good placements most of the way up. Crux is indeed thought provoking, but is easily protectable with either Camalots or Tri-cams (if you hate your second). Perhaps a little bit easier than 5.6?

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