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Micah climbs through the crux
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Clip a high first bolt with some difficulty, and begin to cruise up easy terrain. Near the top the angle steepens and the holds shrink, presenting a sequential crux by last bolt. Clip this final bolt and make a tenuous traverse right to a nice tight hand and big finger crack. Follow this a few more feet to the anchor of Pony Express.
This route seemed a bit soft for the grade compared to other 5.11- TP climbs. It's also very well protected.
The second bolted route on the right side (as you walk in) of Beastie Alley
Quickdraws for bolts(6?) and maybe a .5 and/or .75 camalot for the top. Mediums sized nuts would also protect the final crack.
chains at the top, shared with Pony Express
Micah, past the initial difficulties
By Matthias Lang
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun bouldery start to exciting delicate finish. Nice route!