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 ADVANCED
Mount Huntington
Select Route:
Brother Laurence T 
no name T 
Once is Enough T 
Perennial T,S 
Southern Migration T 
unnamed T 

unnamed 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X

   
Type:  Trad, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bradley White, 1984?
New Route: Yes
Season: summer-fall
Page Views: 433
Submitted By: bradley white on Jan 5, 2009

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The black line through the slab before I got onto ...

Description 

This climb started out as a free solo to check out the upper left side of the cliff but I went one move too far up this section of the cliff that was irreversible. Began up the left side buttress like to the recessed facing left inside corner for a rope length. Traversed right on ledge to go upward right to thin groove filled with dirt or grasses. Where it terminates continue up slabs to the middle of higher pitches of 'Southern Migration. Finish left of this route on a wide ledge to start from.
The best on sight free solo I've done and on the edge constantly having to stay focused and do precisely what I had to do next without stopping until objectives were met. Surprised and happy there is a great bucket hold finish.
Hiked down left side through some horrible blown down forest. Had to walk on the blown down trees high horizontally, high above the forest floor. Ridiculously dangerous up there and down tree stump spikes.
The climb mostly on high quality rock. Would need twenty or so bolts too make it reasonably safe.
Two stars because the goat path is more like walking than climbing.


Location 

on the left side of the cliff is a large erosion hole. To the right of this cliff feature is in the winter a large deeply filled slope, (more like a mini ravine) I climbed up where climb starts in a V groove corner that faces left and the corner is only done to start it then the v groove is reached just left of corner on slab.


Protection 

some of the climb's top area is bolted now.



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