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 ADVANCED
Mount Huntington
Select Route:
Brother Laurence T 
no name T 
Once is Enough T 
Perennial T,S 
Southern Migration T 
unnamed T 

unnamed 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X

   
Type:  Trad, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bradley White, 1984?
New Route: Yes
Season: summer-fall
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: bradley white on Jan 5, 2009

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The black line through the slab before I got onto ...

Description 

This climb started out as a free solo to check out the upper left side of the cliff but I went one move too far up passed the goat path that was irreversible. I Began up the v-groove ramp to left of wet inside corner. Traversed right onto tree ledge above corner. Up right was thin groove filled with dirt or grasses goat path. When it ended continued up slabs to the middle of higher pitches of 'Southern Migration'. When this route goes up right to finish left I went onto a wide ledge rested and psyched myself up to get up the steep face thirty feet to the top. Right side up from ledge looked like I could get the easiest way up and did think I'm not going make it all the way without falter.
The best ever on sight free solo I've done. The first with constantly on the edge while doing route finding. Had to stay focused to do precisely once what I had to do without stopping until objectives were met. Surprised I lived and was very happy to finish with a great stress reliever bucket hold at the top's edge after much greasy friction. I became addicted to on sight solo. Kept my solo addiction private until recently. Had no interest in promoting it. It was too dangerous to promote and that has not changed.'Southern Migration' done I understood better where my climb went. Not all of it. I lost it for a while above the goat path and don't remember the details.
Exiting in the woods was horrid looking blown down forest. Walked on the giant blown down trees high horizontally above the forest floor of spike tree trunks. Ridiculously dangerous up there and fascinatingly safe above the dense old pine forest.
The climb is mostly on high quality rock. Would need many bolts and the finish has to be done by aid.
Two stars because of the goat path. Its a long walk up and the beginning climbing isn't great.

Location 

on the left side of the cliff is a large erosion hole. To the right of this cliff feature is in the winter a large deeply filled slope, (more like a mini ravine) I climbed up where climb starts in a V groove corner that faces left and the corner is only done to start it then the v groove is reached just left of corner on slab.

Protection 

some of the climb's top area is bolted now.


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