Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
East Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bear's Reach 
East Corner 
East Crack 
East Wall 
Fandango 
Fantasia 
Far East 
Fear No Evil 
Haystack 
Labor of Love 
Line, The 
Out to Lunge 
Pigs on the Wing 
Pop Bottle 
Preparation H 
Psychedelic Tree 
Scimitar 
Unnamed 

Unnamed 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 654
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 6, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This fun low angle face climb starts on the far right side of the East Wall. The first bolt is 20ft up, but it is only 5.6 to that point. Follow a handful of well spaced bolts to the crack above. Fun lieback moves will get you to the anchor.

There is good gear on this climb, but it is well spaced to keep you on your toes. Probably not best climb for your first 5.10.


Location 

Located about 120ft to the right of the Line. It is the last bolted climb on the far right side of the East Wall.


Protection 

A few large nuts, and a single set of cams to #1 camalot



Comments on Unnamed Add Comment
Show which comments
By TinCrow
From: Ca
Jul 4, 2009

Nice route.Starts with four bolts, then I used #o-1(c3) for the first gear placement out left midway between bolt and first large roof/block. Then a couple more (Camalot c4).5-3.5 will protect the upper section well.
Fun to toprope Left side corner and face although they are a bit dirty.

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Sep 30, 2010

Good lead, bolts near the hard spots and lots of varied climbing; face down low and crack/corner up high. Pretty clean for probably not getting much traffic.

By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 18, 2011

Didn't care for this route. Easy dike hikeing (5.8 tops) down low and into a funky short corner with tons of feet. Maybe one move of .10a and the rest much easier. Think I just used draws and a #1 C4 which protected the route well.