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At the far right side of the crag sits a short 2 bolt (rolofson guide says 3, but we spotted the bolt hole for the first bolt, and it has been removed, or never put in) route. Stick clip the 1st bolt, or clip it from the end of the rock wall, then start the route from the ground up (for the grade) past the 2 bolts to the anchor. If this route were cleaned a little more it would be a 2 star, but only 1 due to dirty condition. A nice wind down to the day, or a good route before doing the longer routes on the crag.
2 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 10, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
I wondered what this route was when I did it (only have the Rositer guide) and after i did it, I penciled in: Unknown, 5.9+, That was my honest best guess.
I'm not trying to be inflamitory, but I honestly believe this route was no harder than 5.10a. I can't say it is any harder than Cosmosis (9+), let alone Gates Of Eden (10a). It is nowhere near as hard as Left Wing (10c).
I was up there and did it in the drizzle. Even a pal who hadn't climbed for a year (an has never made an 11 in his life) was able to do the moves.
We saw the extra bolt-hole too. I bet it was not placed/removed because it wouldn't keep you off of the ankle-raking boulder behind the route anyway.