|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Jesse Ryan on Apr 21, 2003|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Unnamed 10+ Left of Sig Sauer||Add Comment|
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From: Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
This is one of those fun routes of all sizes.
It quickly goes to big hands at the start, step behind the pillar and stem up with a #.75 (BD) to a tricky transition from the pillar (the top wobbles) to the crack (a bit sandy/loose here, watch out).
The OW section takes BD #4, #5, and even #6. If one were to sew this section up, take two #4's, two #5's, and one #6. With some trading and walking, one set is totally fine.
Doubles from #.75 to #3, and then OW pieces. And maybe a finger size piece for the top if you're a wimp like me.
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Oct 24, 2012
|Used 1 -.75, 2-#1, 2-#2, 2-#3, 3.5, and old 4....would take a 4.5 if I did it again...Pretty fun little route. But not hands like the book says|
By Dave Alie
From: Golden, CO
Nov 12, 2014
I hopped on this to kill time while some friends were on nearby routes and I was also surprised by the content of the pitch. I was also surprised how secure the climbing was despite the wideness and extremely sandy upper half. There are an excess of good rests on this route.
The Bloom guide recommends one 4 inch cam which I thought undershot the mark pretty substantially, but I also felt the above gear recommendations were a bit excessive. I think with either two #4 C4s or one #4 and one #5, one could be very safe throughout the wide section. Leave the #6 on the ground.
I placed (in no particular order): one #2 Camalot, two #3 Camalots, one 0.75 Camalot, one 0.5 Camalot, one orange Metolius, and one #4 C4. Placing 7 or so pieces felt more than adequate considering the rests.