unnamed 5.10+
| 2,105 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | ?? |
| Submitted By: | Joe Gartner on Jan 20, 2002 |
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Jonas Wiklund placing gear high up.
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Description This route is a few hundred feet to the left of where the trail meets the rock. It is a long right facing corner that passes through a few roofs. It starts out with some laybacking that quickly turns to perfect hands. Its long, pumpy and awesome. It gets a five star, 5.11 grade in the guide but many will say a #2 Camalot-sized crack can't be harder than 5.10+. Go figure.
Protection Mostly #2 Camalots with a few #1 and some smaller stuff for the lieback start
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 26, 2006 rating: 5.10+
| don't miss this one! |
By Steve McCorkel Mar 28, 2006
| However, regarding the grade, this route does have a crux. 5.11a |
By Roger Linfield Feb 27, 2007
| I agree with the 5.11a rating, even though it is hand size most of the way. I used mostly #2.5 and #3 friends (11 total). |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Mar 19, 2007 rating: 5.11-
| Awesome climb to photograph from 50 meters to the right, at the base of the short 11- and 10+. YOu catch the climber at the crux looking like he's on an arete. Great route, crux up top is 11- and you are pumped. |
By Jonas Wiklund Dec 12, 2007
| Yeah, the hardest parts are the start and the end of this fantastic crack, obviously. Not the perfect hand 5.10 that make up most of this route. 5.11- is fair isn't it? |
By wilcox510 Oct 20, 2008
| I'd call this 5.11-. I put a few blue camalots in, and I also placed a 4 camalot in the wide slot (you could put something smaller in the back of the slot). Fairly pumpy and physical. Really fun. |
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