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Broken Tooth
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Unnamed (Left side) 
unnamed 5.10/11 (?) 
Unnamed short 11- 


YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 2,352
Submitted By: Joe Gartner on Jan 20, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Jonas Wiklund placing gear high up.


This route is a few hundred feet to the left of where the trail meets the rock. It is a long right facing corner that passes through a few roofs. It starts out with some laybacking that quickly turns to perfect hands. Its long, pumpy and awesome. It gets a five star, 5.11 grade in the guide but many will say a #2 Camalot-sized crack can't be harder than 5.10+. Go figure.


Mostly #2 Camalots with a few #1 and some smaller stuff for the lieback start

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By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

don't miss this one!

By Steve McCorkel
Mar 28, 2006

However, regarding the grade, this route does have a crux. 5.11a

By Roger Linfield
Feb 27, 2007

I agree with the 5.11a rating, even though it is hand size most of the way. I used mostly #2.5 and #3 friends (11 total).

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 19, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

Awesome climb to photograph from 50 meters to the right, at the base of the short 11- and 10+. YOu catch the climber at the crux looking like he's on an arete.
Great route, crux up top is 11- and you are pumped.

By Jonas Wiklund
Dec 12, 2007

Yeah, the hardest parts are the start and the end of this fantastic crack, obviously. Not the perfect hand 5.10 that make up most of this route. 5.11- is fair isn't it?

By wilcox510
Oct 20, 2008

I'd call this 5.11-. I put a few blue camalots in, and I also placed a 4 camalot in the wide slot (you could put something smaller in the back of the slot). Fairly pumpy and physical. Really fun.