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unnamed trad on wolf wall 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: dk
Page Views: 460
Submitted By: gus on Mar 10, 2009

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Dangling out the jugs above the chimney to the fin...

Description 

obvious trad route on left side of Wolf Wall. Very hard bouldery start through chimmney or can alternate start 10' left of chimmney and traverse over. climb face through 2 roofs on face to big chossy alcove near top. Old tree growing in alcove.


Location 

on left side of Wolf Wall. route is just right of Lone Wolf On Far Ridge


Protection 

gear. fixed nut protects roof move approx halfway up



Photos of unnamed trad on wolf wall Slideshow Add Photo
Sammy above the cleft, below the first roof.
Sammy above the cleft, below the first roof.
Sammy one move above the crux in the broken crack.
Sammy one move above the crux in the broken crack....
Sammy likes trees.
Sammy likes trees.
Comments on unnamed trad on wolf wall Add Comment
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By bernard
From: birmingham, al
Sep 15, 2009

This route is not on the left side of the wall. It is more or less in the center and to the left of a big, overhanging, leaning handcrack that begins back in a cave-like feature.

This route begins under a little nook with one making a one or so bouldery move to a overhead wide handcrack that is difficult to gain. Its hard right from the start.

I did the first ascent of this using the roof finish variation that trends right through the roofs above the fixed wired nut because at the time a huge dead tree hung in the direct finish's path. Gus and Charles did the first ascent of the direct line thrashing through the tree remnants, following the crack through to the finish. Somebody came along shortly behind me and did a second ascent, leaving the fixed gear....never knew who. I don't know who DK is.

Climbed this again today (10/09)

the start is harder than 5.9....probably a hard 5.10, flaring handcrack.

There remains two fixed pieces on this route, one of which is a rusty wired stopper. Neither should be relied on. Both are located within a minor crux of the route. Do not trust your life to these

The route's direct finish follows a incipient handcrack up to a cave...and the crack continues through the roof of the cave to the top. This finish i'd never done until today.....and it is quite good. My original finish breaks off from this line and goes right through blocky holds up through two roofs.....this is a bit above the fixed wire. After negotiating the roofs, finish on a vertical headwall section.

Pretty good route.....both variations are very exposed...... Take a large cam for the roof portion of the two-roofs variation.....and large cams are helpful for the direct finish as well.

All of these are long routes in this section of cliff....so thats nice. This route has a 'big route' feel to it...steep and exposed at the top

Standard Steele rack. Belay off trees at the top or construct an anchor using slings.

There is not a convenient breach in the cliff for top access in this area

By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Briar Patch
Jan 10, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fixed nut is blown as of about a month ago.
Roof still protects quite well with a couple stoppers.

Alt. Start: From 25' left, pleasant climbing on broken patina and flakes leads up and right to join the route above the cleft. Don't fall.

Edit to add....
Did the left finish out of the cave yesterday (11/4/12), good steep crack jamming and jugs. Equally as airy and more positive than the right finish out of the cave. Must do.

By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Briar Patch
Dec 28, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Cold shuts up and left. New ring anchors up and out right.