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Broken Tooth
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Unbelievable T 
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 
Unnamed short 11- w/ traverse to left crack T 

Unnamed short 11- w/ traverse to left crack 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ??
Season: Gets late afternoon sun
Page Views: 593
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

A fun climb with an early crux (have the green camalot ready) and then a pump crux up top if you don't move quickly. Climb the initial thin crack up to a pretty good hold, protect high, but with a sling, traverse left on funky moves to gain the open book to the left and then layback up the good flake. to the anchors. It get easier as you go.

Location 

A few feet left of Blue Sky Mining...
As you head left past the popular unnamed 11- handcrack (entered as 10+ on this site) you will come around a corner past a tree and see 2 short climbs, a 10+ on the right (Blue Sky Mining) in a primarily right facing corner, and an 11- route (Unnamed) switching from a crack on the right to a crack on the left at a horizontal 20' up.

Protection 

From very thin hands up to thin hands until the traverse, then thin hands down to thin fingers at the top. 1 cams each .75", 2.5", 1" 2 cams each 1.5", 2". will sew it up.


Comments on Unnamed short 11- w/ traverse to left crack Add Comment
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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 3, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

It sounds like this route is Midnight Oil. FA Jim Howe, Keith Maas.
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
May 14, 2013

Yep this is most definitely Midnight Oil!!!!!
10+