Unnamed short 11- w/ traverse to left crack
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A fun climb with an early crux (have the green camalot ready) and then a pump crux up top if you don't move quickly. Climb the initial thin crack up to a pretty good hold, protect high, but with a sling, traverse left on funky moves to gain the open book to the left and then layback up the good flake. to the anchors. It get easier as you go.
A few feet left of Blue Sky Mining...
As you head left past the popular unnamed 11- handcrack (entered as 10+ on this site) you will come around a corner past a tree and see 2 short climbs, a 10+ on the right (Blue Sky Mining) in a primarily right facing corner, and an 11- route (Unnamed) switching from a crack on the right to a crack on the left at a horizontal 20' up.
From very thin hands up to thin hands until the traverse, then thin hands down to thin fingers at the top. 1 cams each .75", 2.5", 1" 2 cams each 1.5", 2". will sew it up.
|Comments on Unnamed short 11- w/ traverse to left crack
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 3, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
It sounds like this route is Midnight Oil. FA Jim Howe, Keith Maas.
By Princess Mia
May 14, 2013
Yep this is most definitely Midnight Oil!!!!!