Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | equipped by Zach Oranzak (5.10, A2), FFA: Brownpoint King (John Hennings? Summer 2007?) |
Page Views: | 3,587 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | bart cubrich 1 on Jun 25, 2010 · Updates |
Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki |
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Description
Body Karate Roof was the formerly open roof project at Beehive Buttress. It is the only line of bolts that go directly out the only prominent roof at Beehive Buttress. Access this roof problem by climbing one of the 5.7 sport routes below it.
Eds. Per Ken Duncan, this route may be the same as ??; however, the rating differences submitted make this not entirely obvious. The submissions are combined here onto the 1st submission's page, as is our normal routine.
Per bart cubrich 1: start on Gypsy Fire, then head straight up the roof (crux), and finish up the techy slab climbing. Don't be fooled by the bolts to the right after the roof moves, the route goes straight up. This route is actually pretty sweet for The Beehive, even though it is basically one move of 5.12.
Eds. Per Ken Duncan, this route may be the same as ??; however, the rating differences submitted make this not entirely obvious. The submissions are combined here onto the 1st submission's page, as is our normal routine.
Per bart cubrich 1: start on Gypsy Fire, then head straight up the roof (crux), and finish up the techy slab climbing. Don't be fooled by the bolts to the right after the roof moves, the route goes straight up. This route is actually pretty sweet for The Beehive, even though it is basically one move of 5.12.
Location
This line goes out the center of the prominent roof system on the right side of Beehive Buttress.
Per start on Gypsy Fire, and go through the roof.
Per start on Gypsy Fire, and go through the roof.
Protection
Bolts to a bolted anchor.
Per bart cubrich 1: bring couple long slings for the 5.6 portion (I use 3), 3 quickdraws, and anchor gear. The anchor is a little sketchy looking, so if you like the person who is cleaning the route, I usually back up the anchor with a 0.3 BD X4. Bring a double length runner for the anchor of Gypsy Fire if you want the rope out of your way. It is safe to clip the crux bolt without doing so, but you will get massive rope burn when you fall in the crux.
Per bart cubrich 1: bring couple long slings for the 5.6 portion (I use 3), 3 quickdraws, and anchor gear. The anchor is a little sketchy looking, so if you like the person who is cleaning the route, I usually back up the anchor with a 0.3 BD X4. Bring a double length runner for the anchor of Gypsy Fire if you want the rope out of your way. It is safe to clip the crux bolt without doing so, but you will get massive rope burn when you fall in the crux.
Photos
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