Unnamed Right 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 65 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Ed Rombach & Tom Wezwick |
| Submitted By: | Monomaniac on Oct 9, 2007 |
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Nearing the strange crux of "Unnamed Right".
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Description Unnamed Right is clearly the bastard step-child of "Unnamed Left" and "Unnamed Middle". Of course, UL & UM were twins, which would make any offspring of the two the sinful spawn of an incestuous relationship. That explains why Unnamed Right is so inferior.
Anyway, this route is cursed with a thick layer of moss, surely the result of little sun exposure, which ironically makes this route all the more tempting to summer climbers. The route ascends an ok slab to an awkward series of gastons and enjoyable funkery, that ultimately deteriorates completely into a fingertip crack and scary move getting to the anchor.
Location Immediately right of the brown arete of "The Blade", or two routes right of "Unnamed Middle", or immediately left of Handsome Parish Lady.
Protection Bolts to 2 BA.
| Comments on Unnamed Right |
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By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Oct 9, 2007
| Aside from the intermittent moss, I don't think this route is so bad. The holds are generally really good, but they require long, gymnastic moves between them. The crack at the top is a bit funky. |
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
May 17, 2008
rating: 5.11b
| Fun climb; thought this one would be easier in looking at it from the ground, but found the top to be pretty tough. Maybe I was just tired. Good clipping holds may be found about 15" beyond the lip of the roof. |
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Sep 3, 2009
rating: 5.11a
| I definitely didn't find that clip hold! Super desperate anchor clip for me. The route was good fun, and I'd like to think it's harder than 11a because of the beatdown it gave me, but the truth is that I just need more practice on this type of terrain. |
By tom wezwick
Oct 11, 2010
| If I am correct...............Ed Rombach and I put this up when we had the canyon all to ourselves.......back when the dino...sors ruled! we thought 11b.......... |
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