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 ADVANCED
Eagle Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are You Lichen It? S 
Bananarama S 
Black Streak S 
Bunga Bunga S 
Didgemaster S 
Handsome Parish Lady S 
Indecent Insertion S 
Jug Abuse S 
Killer Bee S 
Kona S 
Maalox Moment S 
Manhattan S 
Mr. Wong's Zipper T 
New Wave S 
Old Wave T 
Omdulation Fever S 
Pepto-Dismal S 
Psycho Thriller TR 
Racist Fantasy S 
Top Hat S 
Turkey Baster S 
Tutti Frutti S 
Unnamed Left S 
Unnamed Right S 

Unnamed Left 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Leslie Coon
Page Views: 740
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Surmounting the early bulge on the beautiful brown...

Description 

This brilliant line climbs nearly 100 feet of pristine pockets, knobs and edges. Begin by scrambling with difficulty up to the exposed, slopy ledge below Manhattan. Best to leave your belayer on the ground, which is doable if you have a 60m rope. Stick clip the first bolt, and traverse right onto the cinnamon colored scoop. Surmount the cruxy bulge near the right arete, then move back left onto the faces. An endless sea of pockets and knobs continues upwards. Around mid-height a series of shallow scoops appears on the left. Its possible to climb into these scoops, but they offer no respite, and exiting these features is awkward and difficult. Best to stay right.


Location 

Immediately right of "Manhattan".


Protection 

13 bolts and 2 BA. Bring a lot of draws and a stick clip for the first bolt.



Photos of Unnamed Left Slideshow Add Photo
Pockets and edges among the pines on "Unnamed Left"
Pockets and edges among the pines on "Unnamed Left...
Enjoying the excellent "Unnamed" on the south side of Eagle Canyon.
Enjoying the excellent "Unnamed" on the south side...
Avoiding the unpleasant scoops high on "Unnamed Left"
Avoiding the unpleasant scoops high on "Unnamed Le...
Comments on Unnamed Left Add Comment
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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 14, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

We started from the ledge up left towards "Manhattan" and didn't use a stick clip for the first bolt. It's not too bad to do this but blowing the first clip wouldn't be good. If you have a stick, use it.

By Dave Wachter
Jul 11, 2009

Excellent sustained climbing. Mostly just less than vertical, so you can get some decent rests (at the expense of sore toes, if you're using good pocket-climbing shoes). Rock seemed solid enough when dry, but I've heard it can be crumbly for a while after it rains. Several of the bolt hangers down low are spinners, which can be disappointing if you're trying to hang draws at full extension!