Unnamed II 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Sep 13, 2002 |
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Bryan starting the meat of the route. Hope that t...
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Description Park at Blue Gramma and head up the hill. This climb is just to the left, on aspect of the cliff that is facing the road.
This Left-facing Corner is just left of "Formerly Aided" and just right of an Unnamed 5.9 Right Facing corner, or 2 cracks to the right of Dawn Of An Age. The crack starts fairly small (and easy) and gets harder as the size, angle, and pump increase towards the top. There does not seem to be a technical crux.
The rock here is a little more corse and soft than in some other climbs, so it is a little sandy. It is another great corner climb in Indian Creek though, and one you can easily protect without a truckload of cams. 2 sets should do nicely.
Rap or lower from the fixed anchors.
Protection Ahhh- for once something you protect on just 2 sets of cams...The gear is of increasing size from 1" to 3.5" as you climb upward. Take 2 of each size cam from 1.5 to 3", possibly with three each from 2.5" to 3.5" the (wide hands/narrow fist), if you are pushing your grade or if you like to sew it up.
Working through the perfect hands section.
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I missed a crutial right foot coming out the roof ...
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By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Apr 19, 2006
| Personally, I think the technical crux comes at the top when it turns into an offwidth after lovely thin hands crack climbing and laybacking. They should have put the anchors about 10 feet lower! |
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Sep 18, 2006
| I dunno, the fact that you can get a solid no hands rest while clipping the anchors indicates to me that they are placed perfectly. It is a drag to reach that offwidth though, after all that perfect thin hands. |
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2008
| tough route. I was gassed up high. fun though!
CL |
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