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 ADVANCED
Blue Gramma Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blue Gramma T 
Dawn of an Age T,TR 
Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 
Event Horizon, The T 
Formerly Aided T 
Hayley's Heyday T 
left of 5.10 flake T 
Moon Goddess Revenge T 
Orion's Bow T 
Petrelli Motors T 
Price of Evil, The T 
Unknown far left T 
Unknown far left - II T 
Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 
Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 
Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral) T 
Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Unnamed II (fingers through fists) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,555
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 13, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Bryan starting the meat of the route. Hope that t...

Description 

Park at Blue Gramma and head up the hill. This climb is just to the left, on aspect of the cliff that is facing the road.

This Left-facing Corner is just left of "Formerly Aided" and just right of an Unnamed 5.9 Right Facing corner, or 2 cracks to the right of Dawn Of An Age. The crack starts fairly small (and easy) and gets harder as the size, angle, and pump increase towards the top. There does not seem to be a technical crux.

The rock here is a little more corse and soft than in some other climbs, so it is a little sandy. It is another great corner climb in Indian Creek though, and one you can easily protect without a truckload of cams. 2 sets should do nicely.

Rap or lower from the fixed anchors.

Protection 

Ahhh- for once something you protect on just 2 sets of cams...The gear is of increasing size from 1" to 3.5" as you climb upward. Take 2 of each size cam from 1.5 to 3", possibly with three each from 2.5" to 3.5" the (wide hands/narrow fist), if you are pushing your grade or if you like to sew it up.


Photos of Unnamed II (fingers through fists) Slideshow Add Photo
Working through the perfect hands section.
Working through the perfect hands section.
I missed a crutial right foot coming out the roof on on-sight attempt. Much harder w/o that footer.
I missed a crutial right foot coming out the roof ...

Comments on Unnamed II (fingers through fists) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Apr 19, 2006

Personally, I think the technical crux comes at the top when it turns into an offwidth after lovely thin hands crack climbing and laybacking. They should have put the anchors about 10 feet lower!
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Sep 18, 2006

I dunno, the fact that you can get a solid no hands rest while clipping the anchors indicates to me that they are placed perfectly. It is a drag to reach that offwidth though, after all that perfect thin hands.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2008

tough route. I was gassed up high. fun though!

CL