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Unnamed Face Problem 

Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+ [details]
FA: [unknown]
Season: Cool temps help a lot
Page Views: 842
Submitted By: Bjorn on Dec 27, 2008

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Description 

I first found this problem on one of the hottest days of the summer. I had rock shoes with me but no pad. I analyzed the face and its features, judging it hard but climbable. I palpated the starting holds and concluded that today was too hot and humid to consider attempting it padless. I decided to come back when it was cooler. I finally returned on Christmas Day and sent this excellent thin face climbing problem after a dozen tries or so.

The problem consists of steep thin face climbing and a committing mantle topout. For holds you have edges that are sort of non-edges. More like faint bulbs of granite texture. Brute strength is unwelcome here. Delicacy and precision are the name of the game. Cryptic sequencing is also a barrier to the send, and I get the impression everyone who climbs this problem will employ slightly different moves.


Protection 

You'll want a pad. Not necessarily highball, but blowing the mantle topout would be painful.



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By Derek Sullivan
Sep 17, 2009
rating: V5 6C

Really awesome line. Typical North Shore sandbagging....this problem is considerably harder than V3.

By Bjorn
From: Near Joshua Tree
Nov 10, 2009

Sorry. Felt like the crux of a 5.11+ delicate face climb to me. V4 wouldn't be unreasonable, I suppose.

By Derek Sullivan
Dec 1, 2009
rating: V5 6C

Hahaha. No apology necessary. It's the North Shore way! Awesome problem regardless of numbers.

By Rich Brereton
From: Somerville, MA
Nov 7, 2011
rating: V3 6A

Reminded me of JBMFP in J-Tree, but easier and not as highball. V3. Top out on the left.

By Dan Pfistner
From: BEVERLY, MA
Nov 7, 2013
rating: V4+ 6B+

Such a tricky problem to grade. It's not easier than V5 but not harder than V3.... What a mystery! However, this boulder also solved a mystery for me. I got to see first hand why all the granite around here is pink. Equal parts blood and chalk!