Unnamed Chimney  5.5

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Type:  Trad, 60 feet Consensus:  5.5 [details] FA:  Season:  Whenever it's dry. Submitted By:  TacoDelRio on Jan 14, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Some bearded lunatic FREE SOLOING the EPIC 5.5 chi...

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Another alternative start to Royal Arches. This 5.5 chimney sees much less traffic than the first pitch of RA, so it's much grippier. Whatever, it's fun, go do it if you wanna do some easy chimney stuff, I'm just writing about it okay?

The bottom of the route is like a narrow bathtub, so it's filled with water whenever it's wet.

The Supertopo guide shows another little bit of 5.5 to the left after exiting the chimney, which should take to to RA itself.

Location 

It's a bit right/East of the 5.7 alt start for RA. Feminine Protection (a sport route) is to the right on the big steep slab.

Protection 

Standard rack. I seem to remember placing a #3 and #4 C4, and slinging one of the rocks jammed up at the chockstone. You can build a solid natural anchor off that big tree above the end.

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Whew, Melvin the squirrel made it.