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 ADVANCED
Pink Floyd Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animals TR 
Atom Heart Mother S,TR 
Dark Side of the Moon T,TR 
Meddle T,TR 
Ummagumma 
Unnamed Bolted Face  S,TR 
Wish You Were Here TR 

Unnamed Bolted Face  

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Henry Barber, retrobolted in 2010
Page Views: 716
Submitted By: jim.dangle on Nov 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Climbs on The Pink Floyd Wall at Redrock in MA.

Description 

Make reachy moves on thin edges to a sort of cool stemming crux (using the left side of the Dark Side Flake).

This may be the only true face climb at the otherwise slabby Redrock.

Location 

The Pink Floyd Wall is the first (small) wall one comes to on the approach to the main cliff. This climb ascends up the face on the left of the prominent Dark Side flake.

Protection 

3 bolts to TR anchors at the top. The anchors are set back from the main face, so this requires long slings to set up properly.



Photos of Unnamed Bolted Face Slideshow Add Photo
The climbs heads straight up between the micro-cor...
BETA PHOTO: The climbs heads straight up between the micro-cor...

Comments on Unnamed Bolted Face Add Comment
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By jim.dangle
Nov 27, 2011

If anyone knows anything about the this climb, let me know and I'll add it.

Thanks,

Jim
By mnatti
Dec 4, 2011

So far as the verbal history goes... this is a Henry Barber first ascent. It was originally lead on just 2 RPs (yuck!). Some damn eager beaver named Matt Natti bolted it in 2010, thinking that it was just a TR line. After I discovered the mistake... Henry Barber was contacted and officially said he is against bolting at all, but he unofficially let this incident slide. For any potential "choppers" - please know that the second bolt is in a hollow section of granite, hence the glue-in ring. If this was chopped, it could fracture the outermost layer of the rock, which would probably make an awesome 5.10 into a 5.7... so please leave the crowbars at home.
By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Jan 8, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Does anyone think we could give some of these unnamed climbs names? Perhaps Pink Floyd albums would keep the theme going?
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 8, 2012

Maybe we could ask Henry Barber for a name, since he is credited with the FA?
By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Jan 8, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Right, so I chatted with Matty, and Barber never named his routes. So out of respect, we'll just have to leave this one. But in the interest of organizing things out here, the routes have been given proper names after Pink Floyd albums...chronologically from left to right.
By burlap submariner
Jul 18, 2012

Such a good route, varied slab at the bottom and thin and techy stemming and crimping at the top to a crescendo "thank God", juggy finish. I think that the bolts should stay and not be chopped, it's such a beautiful lead, and climbing it on TR is fun, but leading it is an amazing experience. It took me a lot of moving up and down just before the crux trying to visualize the sequence before I committed to firing to the top.
By Dan Pfistner
From: BEVERLY, MA
Apr 20, 2013

I wanna see someone less than 5'7" or so give this a go. I'm 5'10" and feel just barely tall enough to keep this in the 5.10 range for me. A new favorite route for me nonetheless.