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Unnamed Arete 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Lucas & Barak Shemai
Season: any
Page Views: 1,199
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 26, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: A clean picture of the arete

Description 

This is a spectacular, continuously overhanging pitch. It has no good rests and not one easy move. The rock is sharp and a bit crumbly in places, which is the only thing that keeps me from giving it 4 stars. It starts off with very steep, bouldery moves, then continues with less steep but more technical climbing up the arete. The climbing eases slightly once you reach the giant flake, but if you're like me, your arms are screaming by this point so things still feel quite hard. Lay-back for glory to the anchors!

Rock Climbing New Mexico gives the route a grade of "11d/12a," which is not an option on Mountain Project, so I just call it 11d.


Location 

Currently the farthest left route at the Rough and Readies. Climbs the obvious arete with bouldery start, to an overhanging flake. The first bolt is easy to clip, but a clip stick might be advisable for the second bolt.


Protection 

7 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The first bolt is easy to clip, but a clip stick might be advisable for the second bolt.



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Unnamed Arete
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By Eugene Staley
From: Lamar, Colorado
Jul 13, 2012

CONDITION REPORT 

The holds at the bottom are falling off, and a large hold above the second bolt is gone.

By Jorge Achata
From: Lima, Peru
Jun 4, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

A good sidepull is gone from the very beginning of the route; third move or so, depending on your beta. That might just add enough pump factor to make it lean more towards 5.12. A couple other holds feel like they won't stay there forever, but they are still solid for Rough and Readies type of rock.