Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Steele
Select Route:
(route to left of New Ideal, right of Rainbow Arch) T 
(un-named) 5.7 arete T 
5.8 Corner T 
Aura T,S 
B-52 T 
Banana Route T 
Bird's Nest Crack T 
Black Magic T 
Butter D Licious S 
Chimney Route T 
City Of Worms S 
Cloudy Day T 
Copout T 
Dance with the Devil S 
Dead Reckoning S 
Deborah T,S 
dreadlock T 
Easy Street TR 
Exit Stage Right T 
Flight of the Swallows T 
Full Moon Bar B Que S 
Gaia T 
Ginsu T,S 
Golden Arch T 
Golden Arches T 
Graham's Crack T 
Hob Knob T 
Hot Steele S 
Hot Wing S 
Laser T 
Lone Wolf On the Far Ridge T 
Man Overboard T,S 
Mean Lean S 
Mean Lean (description to be deleted, earlier description previously entered) S 
Meathooks S 
Minnie Driver S 
Modern Day Pirates T 
Monopoly T 
Mystery Slab S 
New Ideal T 
no name (on Wolf Wall) T,S 
Oak (AKA Oak Tree Direct), The T 
Papillon T,S 
Penchant T 
Petrified T 
Polar Express T,S 
project on Wolf Wall S 
Psycho Killer S 
Putting Out the Vibe T 
Renegade Trad S 
Resistoflex T 
Rockwa S 
Rustler S 
Scooter Girl T 
Song of the Cows S 
Steele Head T 
Stepping Out T 
Sting  T 
Stories T 
Sugar Magnolia T 
Suspended Animation T 
Three Pitch T 
Tornado on your Birthday T 
Triad T 
Uncertain Return T 
unnamed 5.10 left of Psycho Killer T 
unnamed 5.9 (area left of Wolf Wall) T 
Unnamed area below and left of Wrangler, etc. T 
unnamed trad on wolf wall T 
Vineland T,S 
Walk the Line T 
Welcome to Steele T 
Wendy's Finger Crack T 
Wolfe-Waites T 
Wolverine T 
Wrangler T 

Unnamed area below and left of Wrangler, etc. 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 334
Submitted By: Br'er Rabbit on Dec 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Follow the chalk.

Description 

Start of tallest line indicated where a waist-height hanging lip at the leftmost end of the slabby wall terminates. This slabby portion is on a tier lower than the tallest portion of cliff at this point laterally.

Boulder-problem, mantley start leads to techinal slab/face moves over crimps and rounded horizontals. Generally up, right, and up over the logical, less-lichen-covered path. Iron-cross move, mid traverse is the crux with two or three more hard moves following before gaining easier ground.

End up in the trees at the middle terrace. Belay from one or two healthy adolescent pine trees.

Mandatory small gear if leading.

There are at least two more boulder/TR lines right of this tallest section of cliff. They are both bouldery with V1-2ish cruxes.


Location 

Left of Wolfe Wall, right of Golden Arch. Lower tier.


Protection 

000 C3 or Red Ballnut in the first gear accepting horizontal about 20' up, then a couple small to medium cams.

Belay from top, rap from trees or walk around.



Photos of Unnamed area below and left of Wrangler, etc. Slideshow Add Photo
Profile of this section of cliffline. Below Rustler, et all.  <br /> <br />'Walk the Line' is around the far buttress seen in the left of this pic.
Profile of this section of cliffline. Below Rustle...
Comments on Unnamed area below and left of Wrangler, etc. Add Comment
Show which comments
By sammy raviv
Dec 24, 2010

way to go y'all!!

By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Briar Patch
Nov 21, 2011

Although suggested by one of the Steele 'Olde Guarde' as a new line early this year, since climbing it I have been advised that this portion of cliff has likely seen prior ascents. In any case, there are many good, if short, TR or trad lines on this section of cliff.

By bernard
From: birmingham, al
Jan 4, 2013

this wall is immediately to the right of the cave feature that has the routes Evil Is and Jolly Roger. That cave feature is fairly obvious. This wall is also below a terrace where the start of the routes 5.8 Corner and Rustler are located.