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Unnamed 5.9 

Unnamed 5.9 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
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Submitted By: KateC on Oct 8, 2009
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Description 

I'm really surprised that this route isn't listed here. It's in the "Climbing Colorado" book as an "unnamed 5.9", and I looked through the 9s on the list to see if it has earned a name recently. I didn't see anything that sounded like it, so I'll add it here.

This is a long, thin slab climb. The crux is in the slick start and then climbing the final, very steep slab above a rail and below the anchors. A fellow climber kept yelling at me to clean off my shoes, and that was great advice.


Location 

The route to the right of Cheril's Peril and left of EZ Street.


Protection 

Bolts on the route and bolted anchors. The pro seemed reasonable on the climb. The anchors are too high for a 60m rap. You can rap to the anchors on EZ Street and then down from there if you have only one rope. A 70m might do the trick, though.



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By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

It is possible to use a 60 meter with this route for the rap. I was able to double rope down to a place on the slab where I felt safe enough for the walk off.