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unnamed 5.10 left of Psycho Killer T 
unnamed 5.9 (area left of Wolf Wall) T 
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unnamed 5.9 (area left of Wolf Wall) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: B. Wolfe, A. Kremin (2004)
Season: not summer
Page Views: 341
Submitted By: bernard on Sep 23, 2009

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Description 

Route starts on a vertical section of wall where there are a series of solution pockets, one of which is very ear-like in shape. One can even tie off this feature with a sling for protection if need be.

Boulder up these features to a scruffy ledge, move right along ledge to a second face section, first using friction holds and edges, then discovering long horizontal slots that are hard to make out from below, pro up in these slots, then boulder up from them on small holds (crux), more slot, and face above that, finally groping through erosional-featured rock to gain a large ledge. Once on this ledge a major portion of the route is finished....and if you could walk off somehow, you'd be done....but you can't. You could rig a rap off one of the trees, but the adventurous type will want to finish the whole route to the true top of the cliff.

So shuffle ahead and to the left on this big ledge. You are confronted by the last section of cliff which begins with this ugly fractured pile of quasi choss. Its difficult to determine just what is the best route up and over this....but look up to the top of the cliff and guide yourself using a large, mature pine whose crown is prominent at the clifftop. Just below it is a vertical section of nice looking salt and pepper colored sandstone, good quality....below that is the undercut chossy stuff. Do you best to navigate through the choss, aiming for the good, prow-like slab above, and upon which there is a little pine tree growing out of a fracture. Figure out how to best gracefully climb and protect through this last section, the top of which is very nice, and the route finishes on big rounded horn-like features right by the big pine tree.

Due to the large ledge that breaks the climb, the route essentially has a 50 foot part one section and a 20 foot part two section. Judicious gear placements are required to 1) not create hellish rope drag, and 2) guide/direct the rope appropriately towards the part two section. For god sake don't do something so unwieldy as break the route into two pitches.....just carefully boulder up under the prow where its kinda chossy and crank up to nicely formed horizontal slots and grooves to the left of the prow shape, passing the little tree...and aiming for the big tree on top.

This is a pretty darn good route for the grade

Location 

(approx 75 yards left of Wolf Wall)

you should be congratulated as being quite the detective if you find this route....although it is not hidden in any way. It just doesn't have any obvious distinguishing features to guide you to it.....except for the solution pockets and edges , including an ear-like hueco, that form a suggestion of a route, and which are easy to miss. I walked by this one for years before i finally gave it a try and made something of it.

Follow trail along cliff's base past Wolf Wall, past the routes, Gaia, then Hob Knob, and as you continue, the trail will divide...lower going below the small detached formation that has the route City of Worms on it, upper will pass through a hall-like feature formed by this detached rock......then you will pass Easy Street, then the next route is this 5.9. There is a mature hardwood tree that is almost right in front of the line of huecos in the rockface at the beginning of the route

Protection 

standard Steele rack

Advise rapping off the big pine. There is not a convenient descent path near this portion of the cliff


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