Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Steele
Select Route:
(route to left of New Ideal, right of Rainbow Arch) 
(un-named) 5.7 arete 
5.8 Corner 
Aura 
B-52 
Banana Route 
Bird's Nest Crack 
Black Magic 
Butter D Licious 
Chimney Route 
City Of Worms 
Cloudy Day 
Copout 
Dance with the Devil 
Dead Reckoning 
Deborah 
dreadlock 
Easy Street 
Exit Stage Right 
Flight of the Swallows 
Full Moon Bar B Que 
Gaia 
Ginsu 
Golden Arch 
Golden Arches 
Graham's Crack 
Hob Knob 
Hot Steele 
Hot Wing 
Laser 
Lone Wolf On the Far Ridge 
Man Overboard 
Mean Lean 
Mean Lean (description to be deleted, earlier description previously entered) 
Meathooks 
Minnie Driver 
Modern Day Pirates 
Monopoly 
Mystery Slab 
New Ideal 
no name (on Wolf Wall) 
Oak (AKA Oak Tree Direct), The 
Papillon 
Penchant 
Petrified 
Polar Express 
project on Wolf Wall 
Psycho Killer 
Putting Out the Vibe 
Renegade Trad 
Resistoflex 
Rockwa 
Rustler 
Scooter Girl 
Song of the Cows 
Steele Head 
Stepping Out 
Sting  
Stories 
Sugar Magnolia 
Suspended Animation 
Three Pitch 
Tornado on your Birthday 
Triad 
Uncertain Return 
unnamed 5.10 left of Psycho Killer 
unnamed 5.9 (area left of Wolf Wall) 
Unnamed area below and left of Wrangler, etc. 
unnamed trad on wolf wall 
Vineland 
Walk the Line 
Welcome to Steele 
Wendy's Finger Crack 
Wolfe-Waites 
Wolverine 
Wrangler 

unnamed 5.9 (area left of Wolf Wall) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: B. Wolfe, et al, (2004)
Season: not summer
Page Views: 305
Submitted By: bernard on Sep 23, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

Route starts on a vertical section of wall where there are a series of solution pockets, one of which is very ear-like in shape. One can even tie off this feature with a sling for protection if need be.

Boulder up these features to a scruffy ledge, move right along ledge to a second face section, first using friction holds and edges, then discovering long horizontal slots that are hard to make out from below, pro up in these slots, then boulder up from them on small holds (crux), more slot, and face above that, finally groping through erosional-featured rock to gain a large ledge. Once on this ledge a major portion of the route is finished....and if you could walk off somehow, you'd be done....but you can't. You could rig a rap off one of the trees, but the adventurous type will want to finish the whole route to the true top of the cliff.

So shuffle ahead and to the left on this big ledge. You are confronted by the last section of cliff which begins with this ugly fractured pile of quasi choss. Its difficult to determine just what is the best route up and over this....but look up to the top of the cliff and guide yourself using a large, mature pine whose crown is prominent at the clifftop. Just below it is a vertical section of nice looking salt and pepper colored sandstone, good quality....below that is the undercut chossy stuff. Do you best to navigate through the choss, aiming for the good, prow-like slab above, and upon which there is a little pine tree growing out of a fracture. Figure out how to best gracefully climb and protect through this last section, the top of which is very nice, and the route finishes on big rounded horn-like features right by the big pine tree.

Due to the large ledge that breaks the climb, the route essentially has a 50 foot part one section and a 20 foot part two section. Judicious gear placements are required to 1) not create hellish rope drag, and 2) guide/direct the rope appropriately towards the part two section. For god sake don't do something so unwieldy as break the route into two pitches.....just carefully boulder up under the prow where its kinda chossy and crank up to nicely formed horizontal slots and grooves to the left of the prow shape, passing the little tree...and aiming for the big tree on top.

This is a pretty darn good route for the grade


Location 

(approx 75 yards left of Wolf Wall)

you should be congratulated as being quite the detective if you find this route....although it is not hidden in any way. It just doesn't have any obvious distinguishing features to guide you to it.....except for the solution pockets and edges , including an ear-like hueco, that form a suggestion of a route, and which are easy to miss. I walked by this one for years before i finally gave it a try and made something of it.

Follow trail along cliff's base past Wolf Wall, past the routes, Gaia, then Hob Knob, and as you continue, the trail will divide...lower going below the small detached formation that has the route City of Worms on it, upper will pass through a hall-like feature formed by this detached rock......then you will pass Easy Street, then the next route is this 5.9. There is a mature hardwood tree that is almost right in front of the line of huecos in the rockface at the beginning of the route


Protection 

standard Steele rack

Advise rapping off the big pine. There is not a convenient descent path near this portion of the cliff



Comments on unnamed 5.9 (area left of Wolf Wall) Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -