Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
Start by climbing the steep crack system until you're just below the large roof. Follow the thin holds out and left aiming for the left corner of the roof (crux). Pull up left into a small corner and then head up and right using good holds to reach a stance above the large roof. From here, the climbing eases up, but you still have another 30 feet or so of climbing to reach the anchors. Very sustained.
To locate this route from the approach trail. First locate Meathead, 5.11c or Starry, 5.12b, they are right at the point where the trail meets the cliff. Walk right along the cliff until you come to a broken crack system that leads to a roof (approximately 25 yards). This route follows the line of bolts next to the crack.
9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
May 25, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fantastic climb, could really use some new hardware, or at least new anchors. The ancient small eyelets up top aren't too confidence inspiring, and are a pain to work with. Strange to see since this route is a classic...and everything around it has bright shiny new stainless hardware, and even shuts.
By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
May 26, 2015
I completely agree with you on this and this is on my list to rebolt. Everything else out there is fairly new and done by people that aren't part of the main NRG rebolting community.