After topping out the approach trail, hike right. Pass 4x4, and the thin cracks Hydraulic Pump and Crankcase, and then Monster Truck. This "Unnamed route" is another 75 or so yards on. The climbing starts off a ledge right above the trail. Two bolts protect the beginning, although the first one is not very well placed and the second is a very hard clip. After the bolts, many folks will still want one more piece before you reach the splitter. Climb the sustained splitter placing 1.5 to 1.75" gear and then turn a roof to the left to continue up easier ground.
A 70m MIGHT get you back to the base. Definitely not a 60 though.
2 quickdraws, probably just one smaller cam. Most of the route is 1.25" to 2 ", but you will need to place red and gold camelot sized gear up higher.
|Comments on Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start
From: SL UT
Nov 4, 2008
Great climb- poorly placed bolts at start- use a stick-clip. Bring 5 #2 friends and 5 #1 camalots. A few .5 camalots for the start of the splitter, and a few 2.5 friends/ 2 camalots for wider sections throughout. 70 meter rope works perfect.
|By Mick S|
From: Sandia Park, NM
Jun 12, 2009
Stout for the grade, especially the face climbing. Don't fall clipping the second bolt, it would be ugly. Excellent route once you get to the real crack climbing. You could get by with 3 or 4 #1 Camalots plus the gear bheller suggested. Tight #2 Friends at the crux.
|By Max Tepfer|
From: Bend, OR
Sep 21, 2010
With all due respect, 'doable' is relative to your movement skills and the first bolt does nothing for you when you're pulling the starting face moves.
|By Tavis Ricksecker|
From: Bishop, ca
Oct 12, 2010
Route 18 in the latest Bloom guide