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"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide 
4 x 4 
Carbondale Short Bus 
Collision Course 
Country 
Crankcase 
Destination Paris 
Hookers 'n Blow 
Hydraulic Pump 
Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie 
Knobby Tires 
Lift Kit 
Linkage 
Marshmallow Safari 
Minute Lube 
Monster Truck 
Salt-Lake Special 
scout 
Take 10 
Take 5 
Town 
Tranny Trouble 
Unknown 21 - big hands flare 
Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner 
Unknown long hands into wide corner 
Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel 
Unnamed 5.10 - just after turning the corner 
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roog 
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs 
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start 
Unnamed 5.11 R of Variety Pack 
Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start 
Variety Pack 

Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,254
Submitted By: J. Hickok on Jun 20, 2004
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Description 

After topping out the approach trail, hike right. Pass 4x4, and the thin cracks Hydraulic Pump and Crankcase, and then Monster Truck. This "Unnamed route" is another 75 or so yards on. The climbing starts off a ledge right above the trail. Two bolts protect the beginning, although the first one is not very well placed and the second is a very hard clip. After the bolts, many folks will still want one more piece before you reach the splitter. Climb the sustained splitter placing 1.5 to 1.75" gear and then turn a roof to the left to continue up easier ground.

A 70m MIGHT get you back to the base. Definitely not a 60 though.


Protection 

2 quickdraws, probably just one smaller cam. Most of the route is 1.25" to 2 ", but you will need to place red and gold camelot sized gear up higher.



Comments on Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start Add Comment
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By bheller
From: SL UT
Nov 4, 2008

Great climb- poorly placed bolts at start- use a stick-clip. Bring 5 #2 friends and 5 #1 camalots. A few .5 camalots for the start of the splitter, and a few 2.5 friends/ 2 camalots for wider sections throughout. 70 meter rope works perfect.

By Mick S
From: Sandia Park, NM
Jun 12, 2009

Stout for the grade, especially the face climbing. Don't fall clipping the second bolt, it would be ugly. Excellent route once you get to the real crack climbing. You could get by with 3 or 4 #1 Camalots plus the gear bheller suggested. Tight #2 Friends at the crux.

By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Sep 21, 2010

With all due respect, 'doable' is relative to your movement skills and the first bolt does nothing for you when you're pulling the starting face moves.

By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Oct 12, 2010

Route 18 in the latest Bloom guide