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"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide 
4 x 4 
Carbondale Short Bus 
Collision Course 
Country 
Crankcase 
Destination Paris 
Hookers 'n Blow 
Hydraulic Pump 
Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie 
Knobby Tires 
Lift Kit 
Linkage 
Marshmallow Safari 
Minute Lube 
Monster Truck 
Salt-Lake Special 
scout 
Take 10 
Take 5 
Town 
Tranny Trouble 
Unknown 21 - big hands flare 
Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner 
Unknown long hands into wide corner 
Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel 
Unnamed 5.10 - just after turning the corner 
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roog 
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs 
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start 
Unnamed 5.11 R of Variety Pack 
Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start 
Variety Pack 

"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
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Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Oct 28, 2011
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Description 

This is a very fun and varied line with a scary start. Boulder up the fractured face and corner placing good gear. Place a piece (green Alien fits best) in a hollow flake just before busting out hard moves (with some sand) to the ledge above...A fall here could be grim! I'm not so sure about the integrity of the hollow flake.

Head up the slot and jam the fun, wavy (mostly #2 Camalot and some #1's) flake/crack. Enter the relatively easy (and protectable) squeeze chimney (#2 - #.5 Camalots). Pull through the small roof on good jams (#1 Camalots). Finish the climb through a thinning corner switch on mostly #.75 to slightly tighter jams and then an anchor. Killer!!


Location 

This is about 2 routes right of Monster Truck and left of "Unnamed 5.11" with 2 bolts


Protection 

Camalots: #.2 - #3, one green Alien, lots of runners (Recommendation in Bloom Guide basically spot-on), 70M rope will NOT work



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By Christopher Barlow
Oct 29, 2011

Agreed about the headiness of the mantle onto the ledge. There is a #1 Camalot placement that one can get that is slightly more reliable than the green Alien piece, but it's tricky to find. I also used a #4 Camalot in the squeeze chimney. Maybe I missed something, maybe it was the early September sandiness, but at the time it seemed like a necessary piece to avoid an insecure and runout part of the chimney. Still, pulling over the roof and the thin hands/stacking corner above is spectacular.