Unnamed 5.11 Fingercrack 

I must also say that this is another climb in which the almighty authority David Bloom messes up gear beta in his guidebook. In this case, he omits the necessity of a .5 friend (blue TCU, .3 camalot), which is really nice to have about thirty feet up, just above the first horizontal break. Hell, you may even want a purple TCU if you really want to sew it up.

cheers
Paul Nelson

This is a really fun pitch with some cool moves off the arete and a nice section of splitter fingers.

Yet another fantastic pitch at the Creek without a name.

I ran into the same issue with inaccurate pro beta from the guidebook.

I do not however hold that against the guidebook author. As far as I'm concerned, the guy did everyone a great favor by taking the time and energy to write the book. Is it perfect? No. But right now it's all we have and that's tons better than what we had before (basically nothing). I do however commend the previous guidebook author (Marco C.) since again, nobody else stepped up to do it.

Indian Creek has become one of the most popular climbing destinations in the country. It needs a guidebook to maintain some degree of order. Maybe some of the folks who've been climbing there since before it became such a destination resent the presence of the masses at IC and hold resentment towards the guidebook and its author because it symbolizes that the it's no longer their personal crag. I'm not sure what everyone's deal is and why the new guide is so maligned on these climbing websites.

I just know the author put a bunch of time and energy into that guide. He is not getting rich from it either. Cut him some slack. If you don't like the book, don't bitch about it on the internet. Write your own.

Man- if you even bother to look at the crack before casting off you would see the gear beta in the guide is off. Take responsibility for yourself.

Onsighted Left Crack . . . got my ass handed to me on this. Oh I LOVE the Creek.

5.11? Gurka felt substantially easier than this. 20 feet of yellow/blue master cam with crappy/no feet....

is there any other guide book that gives you such precise gear beta? Is there any other climbing area that you can simply look at the climb, and get the all the gear beta on you're own? Probably not. It may as well be sport climbing that goes clean at C1. This climb is great though, hint: use the arete.

This route is identifiable by the 'V.XI' etched into the rock at the base of the route in place of a plaque. Personally, I suggest that this route be called 'The Roman Route' or something to that effect for this reason. I thought it was one of the coolest climbs at Res Wall. The proximity of the arete and the breaks make it really interesting. Unfortunately I mistook this route for Flesh and Bone 5.11- and so my rack was way off, but I remember BD .75s in the beginning, to .5s to .4s and several blue metolius sized pieces needed for the thin cruxy part. A #2 friend would fit perfectly in the base of the crack after the final break.