Unnamed 5.11 Fingercrack
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|Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>|
Starts off-fingers, to a short tips section, to good fingers, to a welcome left rest ledge. After that, gun it up ten feet of good offset fingers with no feet (crux). The final 15-20 feet of this route are really cool moves through some breaks and over a little roof, not hard, but very unusual for the Creek.
Right where the wall moves from north-facing to west-facing. It is very hard to miss– look for a fingers, off-fingers offset splitter just to the right of an arete. You can't see the anchors, they are just over the roof.
friends sizes: (1).5, (4).75, (4)1, (2)1.5
|Comments on Unnamed 5.11 Fingercrack
Nov 9, 2007
I must also say that this is another climb in which the almighty authority David Bloom messes up gear beta in his guidebook. In this case, he omits the necessity of a .5 friend (blue TCU, .3 camalot), which is really nice to have about thirty feet up, just above the first horizontal break. Hell, you may even want a purple TCU if you really want to sew it up.
|By Jeff G.|
From: Fort Collins
Nov 12, 2007
This is a really fun pitch with some cool moves off the arete and a nice section of splitter fingers.
|By Michael Sokoloff|
From: Spokane, WA
Mar 30, 2008
Yet another fantastic pitch at the Creek without a name.
I ran into the same issue with inaccurate pro beta from the guidebook.
I do not however hold that against the guidebook author. As far as I'm concerned, the guy did everyone a great favor by taking the time and energy to write the book. Is it perfect? No. But right now it's all we have and that's tons better than what we had before (basically nothing). I do however commend the previous guidebook author (Marco C.) since again, nobody else stepped up to do it.
Indian Creek has become one of the most popular climbing destinations in the country. It needs a guidebook to maintain some degree of order. Maybe some of the folks who've been climbing there since before it became such a destination resent the presence of the masses at IC and hold resentment towards the guidebook and its author because it symbolizes that the it's no longer their personal crag. I'm not sure what everyone's deal is and why the new guide is so maligned on these climbing websites.
I just know the author put a bunch of time and energy into that guide. He is not getting rich from it either. Cut him some slack. If you don't like the book, don't bitch about it on the internet. Write your own.
From: Oakland, Ca
Nov 7, 2011
Man- if you even bother to look at the crack before casting off you would see the gear beta in the guide is off. Take responsibility for yourself.
|By Kevin Volkening|
Feb 8, 2012
Onsighted Left Crack . . . got my ass handed to me on this. Oh I LOVE the Creek.
Apr 2, 2012
5.11? Gurka felt substantially easier than this. 20 feet of yellow/blue master cam with crappy/no feet....
|By greg t|
Aug 12, 2012
is there any other guide book that gives you such precise gear beta? Is there any other climbing area that you can simply look at the climb, and get the all the gear beta on you're own? Probably not. It may as well be sport climbing that goes clean at C1. This climb is great though, hint: use the arete.
|By Casey Zak|
Apr 1, 2013
This route is identifiable by the 'V.XI' etched into the rock at the base of the route in place of a plaque. Personally, I suggest that this route be called 'The Roman Route' or something to that effect for this reason. I thought it was one of the coolest climbs at Res Wall. The proximity of the arete and the breaks make it really interesting. Unfortunately I mistook this route for Flesh and Bone 5.11- and so my rack was way off, but I remember BD .75s in the beginning, to .5s to .4s and several blue metolius sized pieces needed for the thin cruxy part. A #2 friend would fit perfectly in the base of the crack after the final break.