Superb thin-hands and hands climbing in a right-facing corner on great rock. A pod up high, shortly before the anchor is the greatest difficulty for most. Great face features throughout this climb offer ample rests and a break for the feet.
[editors note: there were 2 entries for the same route. i kept the older entry and have included the second entry with these notes.]
per Devin Fin 'mostly hands lil wide at the top but not hard, 10a'
Just left of Variety Pack. Scramble onto a ledge to reach this right facing corner.
[per Devin Fin - 'around the right side up on a ledge. cool hang']
Many red to gold Camalots with a green and a #4.
[per Devin Fin - 'red camalots to #4s'
|By Michael Schneiter|
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Nov 3, 2008
I may have double listed this route. There's an Unnamed 5.10 already included here but it doesn't say anything about being in a corner, which would seem to be some obvious beta for finding the route. Perhaps someone can clear up the confusion and can feel free to remove this route if it is indeed double listed.
The Bloom guide lists this route as 5.11- but it's probably more like 5.10+, in my opinion.
|By Ed L|
Nov 29, 2008
This route is a splitter, just to the left of Variety Pack. Great warm up.
|By Alex Garhart|
Oct 14, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
There is a placard at the base that reads "Hookers and Blow 10+". Great climb.
From: moab, ut
Jan 28, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
yes this is a splitter not a corner
From: Denver, CO
Jun 2, 2010
Yes, I also saw the plaque at the base - it's called Hookers and Blow.
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 7, 2013
I can confirm that this was unnamed 5.11- in Bloom's old book... Definitely harder than 10-