unnamed 5.10/11 (?) 5.10+
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Description This is the wide short crack when you get to the base of the cliff. I've never done it, but everyone I know who has, told me it's harder then it looks.Looks like you can get your knees in the crack, but apparently they just don't quite fit. Name? Probably 5.10+
Protection Some #4 camalots and hand pieces
| Comments on unnamed 5.10/11 (?) |
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By Joe Gartner Nov 13, 2003
| If this is the route on the detached block to the left of polygrip, rock lobster etc then I would have to strongly disagree with the bomb rating. Having done it, I thought the offwidth moves over the roof interesting, hard and very fun. 2 stars at least. |
By Max Schon Nov 14, 2003
| I didn't intentionally apply the bomb rating; didn't even notice it. Do you think the route is 5.10? |
By Bryan Gall From: New Castle, CO Dec 2, 2003
| This climb is a blast!! Initially very easy it goes through a very strenuous offwidth bulge in a wide #4 Camalot size. The last bit is best protected by two #4.5 Camalots (or walking just one #4.5 for a while). I would lean towards the 5.11- rating for this one. By consensus with friends, the hardest moves at the bulge are definitely in the 5.11 range. |
By SirVato From: Boulder Mar 28, 2006
| The route is called "Pussy Wuss Crack" The guide has it at 10+. It's pretty casual to the bulge but, pulling that roof is tough!! Two of my friends onsighted it I just rode the TR. |
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