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Unknown 5.10-, Tony Bubb is in the shaded chimney....
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
A better climb than it appears. Long legs are useful to rest in a seated position in the initial stem-box. Once in the chimney, protected from any heat of the sun, a stem and finger flake system rides easier territory to the top, owing to the many available footholds.
Around a ways on the South Face of Technicolor near the route listed as 'Unnamed 5.10 (left)' This route is Just to the east, on the opposite side of a large, white-capped pillar.
A few smaller cams and a few fist-sized pieces. The Bloom book calls for stoppers (the top is a finger flake) but small cams are just fine.
By Nic Harnish
From: Durango, CO
Oct 10, 2011
This climb is way easier than 10-. With great protection all the way, a useful finger crack, a useful fist to chicken wing crack, and as much stemming as you desire, this thing felt like 9-.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Apr 24, 2013
Is this the Crowning???
Also the unnamed 5.9?