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Reservoir Wall
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Unknown 5.11- 
unnamed 38 
Unnamed 5.10 ( 12) 
Warm-Up Handcrack 
Wigglin' Worm 
Will-Mento 

Unnamed 5.10 ( 12) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,601
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 13, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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Me at the base of the route ready for some perfect...
Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is an obvious, left-facing dihedral. This route lies just left of where the main trail up to the crag meets the rock, and about 20 yards to the right of Wigglin' Worm.

Tape up your paws and climb the wide-hands crack (with a fist here or there for small handed people) to the top of this 70' crack and lower off of the fixed anchor.


Protection 

Mostly #3-#3.5 cams. #2-#3 camalots are perfect.



Photos of Unnamed 5.10 ( 12) Slideshow Add Photo
Dave giving 3 fools a go - this thing is a weird size, smaller that fists but bigger than cups.
Dave giving 3 fools a go - this thing is a weird s...
Unknown #12
Unknown #12
Comments on Unnamed 5.10 ( 12) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stefanie Van Wychen
From: Golden, CO
Sep 18, 2006

This route is great if you have small hands and want to work on fists or if you have big hands and want to work on off-hands. My hands are medium-sized for a girl and I get bomber fists almost the whole way - albiet the jams hurt pretty bad. And suck it up on this one and go tapeless - teaches you better technique!!

NOTE: I'm not sure the route description above fits Three Fools, especially the picture. Three Fools is the splitter but short fist crack that splits the wall at the top of the approach trail.

By Dpurf
From: Superior
May 2, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

The pro list above is wrong. If you bring a #2 BD it is going to stay on your harness. The smallest piece you want is a #3 BD or 3.5 WC And you are going to need a few of them. I did place a #4 WC and and old 3.5 BD on this to. You are going to get afternoon sun on this route as well.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 2, 2007

That's really odd. I placed some.
So perhaps I have the wrong route here? Can anyone re-suggest what route this was so that I can "rename this" and so that the "3 fools" space acan be vacated for a different description?

Note: this was put online prior to the new guide- maybe there is a discrepancy in the bloom book Vs the old paperback folded IC guide?

By Bryan Gall
From: New Castle, CO
Oct 18, 2007

The photo by Monty is what I thought was three fools; the photo of dave is what the new guide calls three fools. Damn!

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Sep 29, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Tony,

The route your describing here is actually an unnamed 5.10 #12 in the new Bloom guide. Three Fools is farther right and climbs a slightly overhanging big hand and fist crack (#3-#3.5 Camalots, maybe the new #4's might fit at the widest spot?)

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2008

Agree, all 3s with a 3.5 at the top; #2s won't fit. Great warmup route!

CL

By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Oct 15, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

I believe I plugged in 4 #3s 1 #2s and 1 #4. The number #2 protected midway up the crack for me where it obviously gets slightly thinner