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Reservoir Wall
Routes Sorted
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Arch Arrival T 
Carruthers-Hauser T 
Cyborg T 
Dr. Carl T 
Dreadasaurus T 
Ernie Used to Box T 
Excuse Station T 
Finger Food T 
From Switzerland With Love T 
Frosted Flakes T 
Good Excuse T 
Gurka T 
Left Crack T 
Less Than Zero T 
Machete T 
Marvelous! T 
Mega Bucks T 
Middle Crack T 
Mud dahbber  T 
Ninja T 
No Excuse T 
Overlook, The T 
Pat's Crack T 
Pente T 
Pirate Treasure  T 
Raja T 
Rez Dawgs T 
Sharka Zulu T 
Skank on the Hanglow T 
Slot Machine T 
Sumo T 
Three Fools T 
Trust it T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools T 
Unknown 5.10 T 
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 
Unknown Offwidth R of wigglin' worm T 
Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 
Unnamed 5.10 T 
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner T 
Warm-Up Handcrack T 
Wigglin' Worm T 
Will-Mento T 

Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,297
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 13, 2002

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Unnamed 5.10 at Reservoir Wall

  • Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route is an obvious, left-facing dihedral. This route lies just left of where the main trail up to the crag meets the rock, and about 20 yards to the right of Wigglin' Worm.

    Tape up your paws and climb the wide-hands crack (with a fist here or there for small handed people) to the top of this 70' crack and lower off of the fixed anchor.


    Mostly #3-#3.5 cams. #2-#3 camalots are perfect.

    Photos of Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Unnamed 5.10 - nice hand sized corner
    Unnamed 5.10 - nice hand sized corner
    Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown #12
    Unknown #12
    Rock Climbing Photo: This climb was a great climb for me with small han...
    This climb was a great climb for me with small han...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Me at the base of the route ready for some perfect...
    Me at the base of the route ready for some perfect...

    Comments on Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Stefanie Van Wychen
    From: Denver, CO
    Sep 18, 2006

    This route is great if you have small hands and want to work on fists or if you have big hands and want to work on off-hands. My hands are medium-sized for a girl and I get bomber fists almost the whole way - albiet the jams hurt pretty bad. And suck it up on this one and go tapeless - teaches you better technique!!

    NOTE: This is often confused with Three Fools. Three Fools is the splitter but short fist crack that splits the wall at the top of the approach trail.
    By Bryan Gall
    From: New Castle, CO
    Oct 18, 2007

    The photo by Monty is what I thought was three fools; the photo of dave is what the new guide calls three fools. Damn!
    By Steven Lucarelli
    From: Moab, UT
    Sep 29, 2008
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b


    The route your describing here is actually an unnamed 5.10 #12 in the new Bloom guide. Three Fools is farther right and climbs a slightly overhanging big hand and fist crack (#3-#3.5 Camalots, maybe the new #4's might fit at the widest spot?)
    By javi
    From: saint george area
    Nov 6, 2012

    Bunch of #3 a couple #2 camalots awesome for big hands
    By mountainhick
    From: Black Hawk, CO
    Nov 9, 2014
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    The photos are of two different routes.

    The corner is in sight of wigglin worm and Dr Carl. It is Route #15 in the Bloom 2nd edition "Unnamed 5.10-"

    The other photo labelled as three fools is further around to the right
    By slim
    Nov 11, 2014
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    hey all, i tried to sort this route and three fools out as best as possible.
    By Optimistic
    From: New Paltz
    Mar 18, 2015

    If you don't have a big stack of #3's, there are a few places in the middle of the pitch where some #2's will work. I found the 3.5 I had to be a bit of a pain, only a few very specific places it would go.

    Soft for the grade.

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