Unnamed 19 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 125 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Monty on May 15, 2006 |
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Clipping the anchors, with the crux just below me
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Description Climb dual cracks with face holds for 40 ft to a good rest. From here it's 80ft of hands to wide hands in a corner through some bulges to the anchors. Crux comes high.
Location If you take the left trail up to the base of Cat Wall, this is the first route you will see. Tom Cat will be to your left.
Protection Single's of everything from .75 to 3. Heavy on the 2's and 3's. A 70m will get you down.
Down low on the pitch, using both cracks
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A bit higher up, stillusing both cracks
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Two cracks make this much easier that it would be ...
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By chongo pantz
From: park city, ut
Apr 13, 2007
| This is Child Abuse, a Jay Smith route.
Hard and wide to upper anchors. |
By Monty
From: Morrison, Co
Apr 22, 2007
| it was a while ago that I led this, but I wouldn't call it wide at any point. I didn't place anything bigger than a 3 camalot. So I guess wide if you have small hands. |
By slim
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.10b
| This isn't child abuse, it is Unnamed 19. Child Abuse is way to the left, just left of Deseret Moon, and has a fair amount of OW. This route is pretty much all hands, from small hands at the start, cups through the middle, and slightly big hands when it gets steeper at the top. |
By JoshuaTreeRunner
From: Los Angeles
Nov 26, 2007
| Agreed with Slims comments. Excellent climb overall. Wanted to lead this last time i was there, just wasnt time... |
By sibylle
From: Currently in California
Mar 24, 2010
| I have small hands - can jam #1 Camalot cracks just fine; and I struggled at the crux, where it got bigger. Partly I was tired by then, and I didn't have enough big gear (3s). I did not know it was going to get bigger up there, and didn't bring enough. |
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Nov 28, 2011
| Sign at bottom is calling this "Kitty Kicker" and this route is listed twice in the database, once as 10, and once as 10+. |
By Cimbing Ivy
From: Sierra northside
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.10+
| great line that has a bit of everything from twin cracks at the start to small pod (and the inevitable exiting) to sustained varied hand size sections middle on up. 120 feet of enduro jam fest. a toughie if you have small hands like mine. but hell it was so much fun! last 20 feet was pure gold camelots vertical staircase.
gear wise nothing bigger than #3 camelots. bring mucho #2 (my partner brought only 5 golds and had to run out the last 15 feet to gun for the top!)
yeah there was a plague naming the climb "Kitten Kicker" - not sure if that was from the FA party or someone just made it up? |
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