Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cat Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
100th Monkey 
9 Lives 
Abbienormal (aka Red Neck Rock Warrior) 
Acme Plaque Me 
Alley Cat 
Bachelor Party 
Bad Cat 
Burl Dog 
Cat Burglar 
Cat Got Your Tongue 
Cat in the Hat 
Cat Nap 
Cat Scan 
Cat Woman 
Cat's Cradle 
Cat's Paw 
Catastroph 
Caterpillar 
Cathedral of the Mad Feline 
Cathouse, The 
Catmandu 
Catsup 
Cattle Call 
Curiosity 
Dead Crow 
Deseret Moon 
Doggie Go 
Doghouse, The 
Fat Cat 
Felix 
Furr Ball 
Hairbald 
Holy Catrimony 
Incredible Butt Crack, The 
Johnny Cat 
King Cat 
King of Beasts 
Kitten, The 
Kitty Litter 
Kool Cat 
Kung Pao Cat 
Line King, The 
Lynx 
Maceo 
Mad Dog 
Meow Mix 
More Than One Way 
Mousetrap 
Pinky Groovy 
Pit Bull Terror 
Puddy Tat 
Puma 
Pussy Cat 
Pussy Galore 
Pussy Whipped 
Sabertooth 
Super Cat of the Desert 
Sylvester 
Tasmania 
Tender Vittles 
Tom Cat 
Trip to the Vet 
Unknown 67 
Unknown - Route 24 
Unknown 5.10 47 
Unnamed 19 
Unnamed 19 
Unnamed 5.10 -Route 60 
Unnamed 5.10: Route 41 ( 46 in 2nd edition of Bloom) 
Unnamed 5.11 ( 36 in 2nd Addition) 
Wild Cat 
Unsorted Routes:

Unnamed 19 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,144
Submitted By: Monty on May 15, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
A bit higher up, stillusing both cracks

Description 

Climb dual cracks with face holds for 40 ft to a good rest. From here it's 80ft of hands to wide hands in a corner through some bulges to the anchors. Crux comes high.


Location 

If you take the left trail up to the base of Cat Wall, this is the first route you will see. Tom Cat will be to your left.


Protection 

Single's of everything from .75 to 3. Heavy on the 2's and 3's. A 70m will get you down.



Photos of Unnamed 19 Slideshow Add Photo
Clipping the anchors, with the crux just below me
Clipping the anchors, with the crux just below me
Down low on the pitch, using both cracks
Down low on the pitch, using both cracks
Two cracks make this much easier that it would be otherwise!
Two cracks make this much easier that it would be ...
Comments on Unnamed 19 Add Comment
Show which comments
By chongo pantz
From: park city, ut
Apr 13, 2007

This is Child Abuse, a Jay Smith route.
Hard and wide to upper anchors.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Apr 22, 2007

it was a while ago that I led this, but I wouldn't call it wide at any point. I didn't place anything bigger than a 3 camalot. So I guess wide if you have small hands.

By slim
Administrator
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

This isn't child abuse, it is Unnamed 19. Child Abuse is way to the left, just left of Deseret Moon, and has a fair amount of OW. This route is pretty much all hands, from small hands at the start, cups through the middle, and slightly big hands when it gets steeper at the top.

By JoshuaTreeRunner
From: Los Angeles
Nov 26, 2007

Agreed with Slims comments. Excellent climb overall. Wanted to lead this last time i was there, just wasnt time...

By sibylle
From: Colorado
Mar 24, 2010

I have small hands - can jam #1 Camalot cracks just fine; and I struggled at the crux, where it got bigger. Partly I was tired by then, and I didn't have enough big gear (3s). I did not know it was going to get bigger up there, and didn't bring enough.

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Nov 28, 2011

Sign at bottom is calling this "Kitty Kicker" and this route is listed twice in the database, once as 10, and once as 10+.

By Cimbing Ivy
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

great line that has a bit of everything from twin cracks at the start to small pod (and the inevitable exiting) to sustained varied hand size sections middle on up. 120 feet of enduro jam fest. a toughie if you have small hands like mine. but hell it was so much fun! last 20 feet was pure gold camelots vertical staircase.

gear wise nothing bigger than #3 camelots. bring mucho #2 (my partner brought only 5 golds and had to run out the last 15 feet to gun for the top!)

yeah there was a plague naming the climb "Kitten Kicker" - not sure if that was from the FA party or someone just made it up?

By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Mar 19, 2014

This page is redundant. The Bloom guidebook lists Unnamed Crack 19 on the Cat Wall as being 5.10. There's no way this crack is 5.10+. There'a another page for Unnamed Crack 19 that lists the same route as 5.10, which is consistent with the guidebook. It's misleading to have two pages for the same crack.

By slim
Administrator
Mar 23, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

i am slowly trying to go through all of the walls and clean up some of the routes. unfortunately i have been buried at work for a while, and it will be like that for another month or two. i have been saving cat wall for last (been trying to pick the low hanging fruit first).