Unnamed 12- 5.12b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Season: | any, cold mornings OK |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Mar 3, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: A photo of the unnamed 5.12- at Technicolor Wall. ...
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Description This is a decent climb which is a little slick at the bottom compared to other nearby routes- it was a bit dusty when I started, but brushed it out. It will probably be dusty again soon.
Start off in the thin finger crack and pro from the best stances you can get (still bad) whenever possible. As the crack widens, it actually gets harder.
The crux is the sustained nature of the bottom 10-12 meters. While there is a horizontal with a jam for a good rest about 8 meters up, there are some hard ring locks and teacups just after that which are quite hard.
From the top of this, hit some thin-hands jams and then proceed to finish up on another 15 meters of easier climbing, moving left and right with decent jams or holds. Good thing too, because I was pumped out of my mind...
go left up top just before a ledge, then back right on the ledge about 3 -4 meters to an anchor.
Rap from the anchor- lowering would be rough on your rope. Cleaning gear on rap would also be a pain in the butt and hard on your rope.
TR is also going to be hard on your rope and you'd be in for a nasty swing if you fell from the top.
Location On the East face of Technicolor wall as approached from the main road, this route lies between the climbs 'On The Up and Up' and the unnamed 5.9 in the left-facing corner.
All three of these routes are just left of a pillar against the main wall.
Protection Starting with thin fingers, then a few each up to 1", then a handful of 1.5" and 2". Then mixed cams to 2.5" and a few more small cams up top, if you like lots gear.
Me trying to get through the crux and to that swee...
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Bence pulling part of the crux
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