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El Cariso - Misc Problems
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1st Problem 
5.7 Finger crack T 
A Bachelor No More S,TR 
Another fun crack 
another warm up 
Big Day At Pink House 
Burn Victim 
Castration 
El Chorizo 
el diente  
Elysia  
Foot Loose 
Girl in the Curl V1 T 
Goomba 
Her Scar 
Kat, The 
Left mini arete 
Lost and Losing 
Mohawk Kid 
Moose Knuckle  
Nice Warm Up 
no shoots just ladders  
Not So Tight Squeeze  
Off Camber 
Pip-Boy 3000 
Pipe Around 
Pipe Down 
Pizza Face 
Shin Splints 
short off width 
slabby face S,TR 
Slim Jim S,TR 
Switch Hitter 
Switchfoot 
Un-named 5.9 Slab 
unknown slab S,TR 
unnamed  S 
War for the Sit 
warm up crack 
Washed Out 

unnamed  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c Hueco: V1 Font: 5

   
Type:  Sport, Boulder, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
FA: FKA Ronnie St. Jean & Jeff Mumaugh
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 457
Submitted By: Ronnie St. Jean on Aug 24, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: view of the anchor and static rope over the top, c...

Description 

This is good for beginners who want to get comfortable at highball and sport. most of the loose chips and flakes are gone. the big one at the top is a little sketchy so treat it delicately. Climb up the easy ramp starting as low as possible and climb past 1 bolt straight up to a scoop to top out.

Location 

Very First large boulder you see on the trail. Take trail to left turn, scramble across boulders underneath oak tree.

Protection 

This is hard to protect we used to large boulders behind the climb, slung them, and clipped in a static rope. We pre clipped the top rope on the ground. Jeff stood on top of 'another fun crack' behind and I stood on the large boulder in front. Pulling the system tight we leap frogged it up and over. Luckily it was the right length on the first try!
you can still do this but now there are 2 bolts. there is one bolt for safety and one at the top to lower off of. I left an oval biner for lowering, there is no need to build an anchor and top rope this. maybe one day another bolt will get added for a more proper anchor.


Photos of unnamed Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: near the bottom
BETA PHOTO: near the bottom
Rock Climbing Photo: position for leap frogging the anchor over the top
BETA PHOTO: position for leap frogging the anchor over the top
Rock Climbing Photo: rope solo (or safe high ball boulder)
rope solo (or safe high ball boulder)

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