Unleash The Lions
|804 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.7 [details]|
|FA: ||P1 Bob Jasperson. P2 Gillett, Sullivan, and Crawford, 2002|
|Submitted By: ||J1. on Oct 5, 2010|
BETA PHOTO: Unleash The Lions.
Pitch 1 - climb a short crack into the right-facing flake/dihederal, when it fades angle right toward the chains above the tree. 70 feet, 5.6.
Pitch 2 - move left into a nice crack and climb it, going around the roof above on the right. Continue with discontinous cracks and flakes and belay behind a large boulder. 60 feet, 5.7.
Downclimb/walkoff to the SE.
Follow the approach description for the Coliseum.
This route is to the left and kind of behind the Ionic Column route.
SR, chains at the end of P1, no anchors at the top.
Brenda on Unleash the Lions.
BETA PHOTO: Following on Unleash the Lions P1.
|Comments on Unleash The Lions
Oct 6, 2010
The walkoff from the end of the 2nd pitch looks improbable, but apparently isn't that bad. When I did the route, I ended up going another 50 feet up an arete to a chossy ledge and traversed left to a tree to rap. This completely sucked. Don't do it. If you have any qualms about bushy, exposed downclimbs, you'll probably want to rap off after the first pitch.
|By John Marsella|
From: Berthoud, CO
Apr 5, 2012
Lots of loose rock just past the roof moves. Careful.
May 3, 2012
Fun route! Pitch 2 was pretty cool, but check your holds before yarding too hard. Too bad the walk off sucks so badly. I would be willing to install a bolted rap anchor at the top if I can get a blessing from the FAs.
|By Bernard Gillett|
May 6, 2012
GBW: I've got no problem with you adding a rappel station at the end of pitch 2 if you can find a good location. I'm certain the other people involved in the 1st ascent wouldn't mind, either. You might want to budget some time clearing loose rock from the 2nd pitch to make sure pulling down the rope won't also pull down a bunch of rock.
From: Lyons, CO
Aug 6, 2012
This is a really fun 5.7, thanks to Bernard Gillett and Co for putting it up. Do the "second" pitch...it's great (I led as one pitch). A rap station up high would really improve the route and reduce the erosion in the walk off gully.
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 13, 2012
Led this today, fun! Only did P1 since there are no rap anchors on P2.