Unleash The Lions 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | P1 Bob Jasperson. P2 Gillett, Sullivan, and Crawford, 2002 |
| Season: | summer |
| Submitted By: | J1. on Oct 5, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: Unleash The Lions.
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Description Pitch 1 - climb a short crack into the right-facing flake/dihederal, when it fades angle right toward the chains above the tree. 70 feet, 5.6.
Pitch 2 - move left into a nice crack and climb it, going around the roof above on the right. Continue with discontinous cracks and flakes and belay behind a large boulder. 60 feet, 5.7.
Downclimb/walkoff to the SE.
Location Follow the approach description for the Coliseum.
This route is to the left and kind of behind the Ionic Column route.
Protection SR, chains at the end of P1, no anchors at the top.
Brenda on Unleash the Lions.
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BETA PHOTO: Following on Unleash the Lions P1.
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| Comments on Unleash The Lions |
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By slim
Oct 6, 2010
rating: 5.7
| The walkoff from the end of the 2nd pitch looks improbable, but apparently isn't that bad. When I did the route, I ended up going another 50 feet up an arete to a chossy ledge and traversed left to a tree to rap. This completely sucked. Don't do it. If you have any qualms about bushy, exposed downclimbs, you'll probably want to rap off after the first pitch. |
By John Marsella
From: Berthoud, CO
Apr 5, 2012
rating: 5.7
| Lots of loose rock just past the roof moves. Careful. |
By goatboywonder
May 3, 2012
rating: 5.7
| Fun route! Pitch 2 was pretty cool, but check your holds before yarding too hard. Too bad the walk off sucks so badly. I would be willing to install a bolted rap anchor at the top if I can get a blessing from the FAs. |
By Bernard Gillett
May 6, 2012
| GBW: I've got no problem with you adding a rappel station at the end of pitch 2 if you can find a good location. I'm certain the other people involved in the 1st ascent wouldn't mind, either. You might want to budget some time clearing loose rock from the 2nd pitch to make sure pulling down the rope won't also pull down a bunch of rock. |
By Dankasaurus
From: Lyons, CO
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.7
| This is a really fun 5.7, thanks to Bernard Gillett and Co for putting it up. Do the "second" pitch...it's great (I led as one pitch). A rap station up high would really improve the route and reduce the erosion in the walk off gully. |
By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 13, 2012
| Led this today, fun! Only did P1 since there are no rap anchors on P2. |
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