Unkown 2 (Pikeline?)
||Ice, 2 pitches, 130'
|Original: ||WI3+ [details]|
|Page Views: ||290|
|Submitted By: ||E thatcher on Jan 11, 2013|
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BETA PHOTO: this is what the route looked like last year when ...
10 feet left of the prominent prow of rock that defines the left side of Duofold is a thin runnel of ice that comes down through a small corner and covers a vegetated slab. Climb this thin runnel, to a thicker slab below a body length Pillar. Top out onto a rock slab
Here we belayed off of a dead/ dying tree and some nuts in a corner. From this belay walk left along the margin of the ice and head up the fat finish of Bloodline to rappel tree.
A mixed option straight up would be possible with more rock gear
The 3rd edition guidebook description for Pikeline fits this climb perfectly, despite the fact that a climb 100'+ to the right is currently known as Pikeline. Anybody know the history here? or this climbs true name? There is a very old (lichen covered) sling at our first pitch belay.
A stubbie and some yellow screws are helpful for the thin bottom pitch. Set of nuts and/ or some small- medium cams are helpful for belay anchor.
Rappel anchor at top of second pitch. 2 rope rappel down bloodline to the ground
Chance on the steeps, nearing the end of pitch two...
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jan 15, 2013
I was looking at that today, and thought it very intriguing. According to Cormier's Pikeline description, Pikeline itself is in fact 30 m right of Duofold, and is the rightmost climb on the cliff. The one you climbed is certainly a unique line, and should be listed as such with its own name, topo, and pictures if you have any more.