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A thin chossy seam
on the slab side of the cliff, walk down past a sport route. The seam is fairly continuous from the bottom of the cliff to the top. It is left leaning and the first available pro is a small section of 1 inch crack about seven feet off the deck.
small nuts and cam's, nothing bigger than 1 inch
From: missoula, mt
Mar 3, 2009
The rock quality here is pretty bad. I jumped on this because i was sick of clipping bolts and it was not really worth it...it may have not been lead before this because the crack needed some cleaning. Not recommended for a beginning trad leader...the pro is shallow and run out. Small nuts and cams are the only protection options. If one gets sketched however, there is usually the option of a short traverse to a bolt. Use the bolted anchor for the 5.6 and 5.8 on this side of the cliff.
Edit: This climb may actually be an R, Two pieces in 55 feet or so.