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 ADVANCED
Alberton Rest Stop
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Unknown(4) 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 275
Submitted By: joshf on Mar 3, 2009

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Description 

A thin chossy seam

Location 

on the slab side of the cliff, walk down past a sport route. The seam is fairly continuous from the bottom of the cliff to the top. It is left leaning and the first available pro is a small section of 1 inch crack about seven feet off the deck.

Protection 

small nuts and cam's, nothing bigger than 1 inch


Comments on Unknown(4) Add Comment
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By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Mar 3, 2009

The rock quality here is pretty bad. I jumped on this because i was sick of clipping bolts and it was not really worth it...it may have not been lead before this because the crack needed some cleaning. Not recommended for a beginning trad leader...the pro is shallow and run out. Small nuts and cams are the only protection options. If one gets sketched however, there is usually the option of a short traverse to a bolt. Use the bolted anchor for the 5.6 and 5.8 on this side of the cliff.

Edit: This climb may actually be an R, Two pieces in 55 feet or so.