|Type:||Sport, 2 pitches, 100'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Mary Ellen Man on May 5, 2014|
|Comments on Unknown||Add Comment|
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By Mary Ellen Man
From: Midvale, UT
May 5, 2014
|Another climber told us this was 5.8 which most of it is but the crux 3/4 the way up the first pitch was definitely 5.10 but really good climbing. I did not get to do the second pitch but it looks like more moderate fun climbing. We used a 70m rope so I am not sure if a 60m would work or not.|
Apr 9, 2015
1st pitch crux is 10a coming in from the right, or, 10d coming in slightly from the left on small friable crimps (of which we broke a couple).
2nd pitch felt like 10a but was very, very friable and definately not recommended.
60 meter rope worked just fine.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Nov 24, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|If this is the route sharing the start with Wooden Hammer we thought it to be about 5.8 but we did not do the top pitch. We did one 35 meter pitch to some heavy chains, passing a nice ledge half way that had rap hangers. A little dirty (new) but should clean up nicely.|
By Finn the Human
From: The Land of Ooo
Mar 21, 2016
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Climbed this over the weekend. Doesn't seem to get done much. The first 20 feet or so were pretty dirty and had lichen growing on it. After the first few bolts the route cleans up and is very enjoyable climbing on good varnish, up until the crux.
As stated, the crux is about 3/4 of the way up. The varnish gives way to softer white sandstone for 5-10 feet. The holds were a little slopey and often covered in a thin layer of sand. Instead of trying to go straight up the dirty blank section, we climbed to the right on jugs then traversed back in to clip. There was a large hueco to the right that worked as a great hold... until it broke. It should still be possible to traverse in from the right to clip, but it may be a little harder now.
At the top of the first pitch there was a 2 bolt anchor with rap rings, and a single glue-in only halfway sunk in the wall, with no glue to be seen. Didn't climb the second pitch. We rapped off the 1st pitch using a 70m rope and had a couple meters to spare.
I think it'll clean up into a real fun climb, but as it is it definitely needs a little work.
Also, route name suggestion: Anti-Knee-High-Levi's