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Diagon Alley 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Nels Rasmussen
Page Views: 262
Submitted By: Aaron Shields on Jul 28, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Unknown 5.7

Description 

A nice left-traversing, steep to slightly overhanging route on good jugs. Position belayer midway between first and last bolts on pretty steep slope. Climber starts over by the dihedral and climbs 5-6 feet up to a large shelf, where the first bolt can be clipped standing. From there the traverse left begins, over and up. crux is the last few feet between the last bolt and the anchors. After clipping the twin bolts on the lip, lower or walk off. Great for beginning lead!

Location 

Rightmost bolted route on the eastern side of the crag, starting just left of the dihedral. Approach from road about three minutes.

Protection 

five bolts to double bolt anchors. Use draws with longer slings to reduce rope drag, especially at the top.


Photos of Diagon Alley Slideshow Add Photo
Dallin at the crux just before the anchors
Dallin at the crux just before the anchors
Topping out on the 5.7 traverse
Topping out on the 5.7 traverse

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