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Choss Garden
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beata S 
Benefactor, The S 
Black Dynamite S 
Bridge to Total Freedom, The S 
Daisy S 
Depth of Field S 
Garden Party S 
Gardener, The S 
Mellow Gold S 
Nettle S 
Pitbulls on Crack S 
Touchy Subject S 
Touchy Tuco S 
Tuco's Nettle S 
Up in Arms S 

The Bridge to Total Freedom 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mick Jurynec, November 2009
Page Views: 648
Submitted By: John Steiger on Aug 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

This is the bolt line between Mellow Gold to the right and Pitbulls on Crack to the left. Of the four 12a's on the Choss Pile, this route is probably a touch easier than Mellow Gold, but harder than Depth of Field and Pitbulls. Almost three stars.

Location 

As of this post, the third bolted line from the left of the crag (the first two are equipped with chain draws).

Protection 

Draws, chains on top.


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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Excellent line with a couple of cryptic cruxes separated by a full rest. I think it lands somewhere between Depth of Field and Mellow Gold in difficulty, solid 12a or maybe 12-.
One of the holds in the first crux is wiggling and might need to be glued in order to keep the sequence from going to 12hard. I found the upper bugle to be brick hard but there are two ways to go at it. I imagine I went the wrong way.

FA is Steve Edwards & ?. Same for the 12d to the far left of the crag.
By pathway
Jan 18, 2016

This route is called 'The Bridge to Total Freedom'.
Bolted and FA by Mick Jurynec November 2009.
The FA says the route went straight up at the upper bulge, although going a bit left or right is slightly easier.
I'll see if I can get the FA to add any more comments.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Feb 5, 2016

Meant to add an anchor but Mick started ultra running and I adopted two cattle dogs, effectively ending my run as "mayor". You can reach over and clip the Mellow Gold anchors, so this was never a safely issue.

As I told Boissal, fix anything. Glue, whatever. Just keep the routes nice. This cliff will continue to exfoliate. It's the nature of the "choss garden", but worth a little effort for such nice climbing.

Splitting hairs on where to go. We had a couple of sequences. One harder, one scarier, but not really scary at all.

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