Unknown V9-10
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| Type: | Boulder |
| Consensus: | V9-10 [details] |
| FA: | Dave Graham |
| Submitted By: | Jay Knower on Feb 1, 2011 |
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Unknown V9 or 10, Monsters from the Id, Rumney
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Description Among the jumble of rocks on the right side of Monsters hides this unlikely, and classic, problem. The problem climbs a beautiful steep face that is streaked with vertical quartz intrusions.
Start sitting. Use sidepulls, pinches, and drop knees to power and technique your way up the face. A heroic throw to the lip provides a fitting end to this amazing problem.
Location Locate the Monsters from the Id crag. The rock continues off to the right of the crag, and this problem is located at the higher level and pretty far right. It's worth taking some time to explore this area, as the jumbled rocks create a cool system of faces and caves.
Protection Pads
Secret Beta: Drop Knee. Lock Off. Repeat Until Jug
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Mike setting up for the crux.
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Don't forget to dropknee.
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Feb 1, 2011
| Does anyone know the name of this problem? |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Feb 1, 2011
| Not sure of the name but Mark Sprague said it is a V9, Dave Graham first ascent.
Also Ward Smith said the route immediately to the left is called Twisted Sister V7 and the deep cave left of that goes at V3 using the crack in the corner of the roof, those two are both Ward Smith FA's. |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Feb 1, 2011
| On 8a.nu most people are split as to the rating. Some say V10, others V9. No one has a name for it, however. |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Feb 2, 2011
| Cool still above my head bouldering but it does look like a beautiful line! |
By bnugent
Dec 4, 2011
| The guidebook calls this problem supreme clientele. |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Dec 4, 2011
| No, Supreme is right next to Doctor No, on the same roof and has a sketchier landing. This one is further to the right (looking towards the cliff) and down a little, probably 50+ feet away. I originally scrubbed it off, but Dave snagged it. |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 8, 2012
| Mark, do you remember any beta for Twisted Sister? Mainly where it starts? |
By Luke W.
From: Prescott
Dec 9, 2012
| I have been above and all around Id but am still unable to find this problem. Anyone have a more specific location? Great area with some cool potential! |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 9, 2012
| Luke it is buried and really hard to see from the trail. But here is my best attempt. When approaching Monsters from the Black Jack Boulder you want to split off right well below the actual Monsters Crag. You will walk by the big 20 foot arete. Keep going you will walk by several alcoves of rock on you left. Just when the rock seems to stop look left and up and you will be able to see the lip to this problem. It is elevated on another boulder. Hope this helps. I will try to grab some approach photos when I'm by this problem again. |
By Luke W.
From: Prescott
Dec 9, 2012
| Thanks! I have recently started to check out this area after reading the comments to use this trail to access the Black Jacks. |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 23, 2013
| I got to watch my friend Mike send this problem today, it looks like an incredible line. We were discussing giving it a name because it really deserves one. Anybody have any input on that? Pro's vs. Cons? Would anyone be really upset if we did? |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 24, 2013
| Shoot a note to Dave, via 8a.nu or facebook. He might have a good name. He won't bite. I was thinking something related to the Milky Way when scrubbing it due to the white quartz line, but that is kind of boring. |
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