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East Side
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Candyman S 
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Cold Turkeys S 
Corridor Traverse, The 
Crescent Corner S 
Deal, The S 
Fixer, The S 
Mighty Thor S 
Ninety-Nine Per Cent Pure S 
Pure Energy S 
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There Goes The Neighborhood S 
Tutor S 
Unknown S 

Unknown 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 452
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on Sep 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Looking up to the second pin. The first pin is ju...
Seasonal Closures - some are lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb is located in the middle of the Gash, about 50 feet left of Candyman. It is a steep and sustained sport climb protected by fixed pins. The rock looks loose, but it's actually decent. From the ground, this climb looks pretty scary. It's about 20 feet to the 1st pin, then there's another somewhat runout section between the 3rd and 4th pins, combined with the sandy nature of the feet since it rarely gets climbed, also the fact that the walls are sort of narrow here, and if you blew a hold or had a bad fall, you could potentially hit the opposite wall. Nonetheless, I think it's just as good or even better than Candyman, and if more people climb it, it would probably be even better.

Next time I'll replace the old webbing at the anchor.

If anyone has any info on the name or FA party, please let me know and I'll update the description. I'm guessing maybe FA by Eric Johnson, Mike Johnson, or Earl Wiggins? But definitely just guessing.


Protection 

5 drilled angles. 2 drilled angles for anchor. Anchor needs new webbing and lowering rings.



Photos of Unknown Slideshow Add Photo
New webbing at the anchor, as of 10/29/10.
New webbing at the anchor, as of 10/29/10.
I'll replace the webbing on this anchor the next time I climb it.
I'll replace the webbing on this anchor the next t...
Changed it to this setup on 10/19/10.  Better?
Changed it to this setup on 10/19/10. Better?
New webbing at the anchor - replaced 10/5/10.
New webbing at the anchor - replaced 10/5/10.
Looking up and out the Gash, just below the Unknown.
Looking up and out the Gash, just below the Unknow...
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