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Southwest Face
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Unknown 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 495
Submitted By: Ryan A. Ray on Sep 20, 2010

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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the wide crack just to the left of Bush Crack. It starts off about fist sized and turns into a squeeze chimney towards the top. Great practice for squeeze chimney technique.

Protection 

medium at the bottom to large at the top. You can prob use a 5 or 6 camalot towards the mid point. There is also a horizontal crack you can place some smaller gear in before moving into the squeeze chimney...Then just run it to the top. Good heel to toe jams down low.


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By JohnPaulO
From: Cedar Park, TX
May 30, 2013

Loved this off-width crack! Fantastic practice for arm bars, heel toe, a knee jam or two, maybe a couple leavittation moves, then transitioning into the squeeze chimney. If only both sections were longer!

You can layback the bottom if your just interested in the squeeze. You top rope it by setting up a trad anchor up top.
By dennis.s
Jan 8, 2016

Per the Dome Drivers Manual this route is called Dan Jam and goes at 5.7, Little Dome Driver calls it V0-

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