Unknown  5.11- PG13

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  ? Submitted By:  Geir on Apr 26, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This route ascends the large tower to climber's right of Microskunks with Cholla Coats. It is one of the original routes in LDE; we have tried to determine who established this route but have to this point been unable to.

Pitch 1 (100', 5.9): Start at the northeast corner of the tower. Scramble up broken rock to the beginning of a crack system headed up the right side of east face of the tower. Getting established in the crack system requires some tricky gear and committing moves. Follow the crack system until it is possible to move right to a two bolt anchor on the north face of the tower.

Pitch 2 (80', 5.11-): Not reccommended due to a lot of friable rock and some shaky pro. Move up and right from the anchor to a bolt. Clip the bolt and ascend the thin crack approx 50'. Clip a second bolt at the end of the crack and move up toward a three-bolt anchor.

While the first pitch is actually a lot of fun, the second pitch suffers from poor rock and less-than-perfect gear. Both anchors are now equipped with quicklinks and carabiners to make descent easier.

Location 

See above, also see overview topo

Protection 

Stoppers, doubles through #3 camalot. One #4 camalot may also be helpful.