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Just right of Tube Steaks Tomorrow is an eight-foot tall roof with a hand crack on its left margin. Jam and stem through the roof (being wary of slightly sandy rock) to a ledge above. Off the ledge, jam the hands and thin-hands corner to a slot, and ascend the face and thin, left-facing corner above until a short but tech-y traverse can be made to the anchors above Tube Steaks Tomorrow.
This route is immediately right of Tube Steaks Tomorrow. The climb starts by surmounting a low roof and works up through a varied left-facing corner/flake system above.
A varied rack works nicely for this climb. Singles from #2 (blue) Metolius to #4 Camalot will get used, with triples in #1 and #2 Camalot sizes. As mentioned above, this climb shares a two-bolts anchor with Tube Steaks Tomorrow.
|By Sam Feuerborn|
From: Durango, CO
Apr 3, 2011
as a lead clipping the anchors is very difficult as it's quite the reach from a tips jam, just TR this thing off of Tube steaks.