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 ADVANCED
Cabin Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aunt Jemima's Hand Stack T 
Better Left Undone T 
Cowboy Justice T 
Four-Wheel Low T 
Fred and Barney's Crack T 
Junk Corner T 
Left Horseshoe Finger T 
Left-facing Corner (unknown) T 
Pair a'grins aka Unknown Roof/Corner T 
Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station T 
Rednekk Justus T 
Right Horseshoe Finger T 
Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) T 
S Crack T 
TH Crack T 
Three Blocks T 
Unknown Awkward T 
Unknown Finger Crack T 
Unknown Fingers T 
Unknown Flake T 
Willy's Hand Jive T 

Unknown Awkward 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,372
Submitted By: mtoensing on Feb 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Start of the climb.

Description 

Start below the dihedral. Either climb the corner up or climb up the face to the right on jugs to a good stance to get into the dihedral. Place about a #0.5 BD cam size piece in the crack, finger lock and throw up to a jug on the face to mantel onto the ledge. I thought this was the crux.

Climb easier rock to the rest of the dihedral. Finger locks or liebacking with a few hand jam pods get you to a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor and some slings.

Location 

This route is a couple of routes to the right of Rednekk Justice. It is the obvious, chalked up dihedral.

Protection 

Small - medium sized cams, 2-3 finger-sized piece (small purple BD cam), hand-sized piece for up higher.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 11, 2013
By chris righter
Feb 23, 2010

Does the top 3rd of this route finish with a sandy flake? Trying to figure out which one this is.
By slim
Administrator
Feb 24, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Yeah, me too. Been a while since I have been in that area and can't remember the order of the routes.
By mtoensing
From: Boulder
Mar 5, 2010

I will try to post some pictures to lessen the confusion. There are two routes here that both have sandy flakes on top, one is wide and there is this climb, with is thinner.
By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
Mar 8, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

If this is .11, then Rednekk is 12+.
By mtoensing
From: Boulder
Mar 11, 2010

Dustin,

I don't think Rednekk is 12+ or even close. I rated this route on the basis of how I felt about it after I climbed it (although I know someone else has the FA of this route and rated it on their basis). What would you rate it?
By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
Mar 11, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Some guys from Gunny said that this was .9, and comparing this to the other routes I've climbed in the area, I have to agree with them, throw in a plus for a few punchy moves. I kinda got served on this route, and it's probably going to be harder than most .9+s at other areas, at the Creek it probably would be .11, but it's not an Escalante .11. Fun adventurous climbing though.
By mtoensing
From: Boulder
Mar 12, 2010

Ok, I'll give it on the basis that this is Escalante and not the Creek. I just hate being a sandbagger.
By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
Mar 12, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Wasn't trying to criticize your rating so much, just trying to say that Rednekk is (in my opinion) much harder than this route. Ratings are subjective as always and everyone has the right to rate a route however they see fit.
By slim
Administrator
Apr 1, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

If I remember correctly, a semi-famous MP climber who 'onsights 5.12 trad' fell and pulled some gear on this one. I've done this one a couple times and always find it awkward.
By Bryce Lokey
From: Montrose
Apr 16, 2012

Awkward is a good term. As a heads up, rock halfway up and for the last 10 feet is very sandy and soft. Rope friction is rapidly degrading these sections. Climbers looking for Escalante "moderates" may use some caution.
By matt j hartman
From: lander, wy
Mar 18, 2013

100% 5.9+. That means it is certainly harder than 5.9.
By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Apr 11, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Calling this 5.9 will get some one hurt. It was harder than many a 5.10a in Escalante, and it has sandy slippery and manky rock up top. In fact, I would say it is harder than the opening moves to S Crack.