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"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide T 
4 x 4 T 
4x20 T 
Carbondale Short Bus T 
Collision Course T 
Country T 
Crankcase T 
Destination Paris T 
Hookers 'n Blow T 
Hydraulic Pump T 
Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie T 
Knobby Tires T 
Lift Kit T 
Linkage T 
Marshmallow Safari T 
Minute Lube T 
Monster Truck T 
Salt-Lake Special T 
scout T 
Take 10 T,TR 
Take 5 T 
Town T 
Tranny Trouble T 
Unknown 21 - big hands flare T 
Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner T 
Unknown long hands into wide corner T 
Unknown OW T 
Unnamed  T 
Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel T 
Unnamed 5.10 - just after turning the corner T 
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roog T 
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs T 
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start T 
Unnamed 5.11 R of Variety Pack T 
Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start T,S 
Variety Pack T 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown long hands into wide corner 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 372
Submitted By: Duncan P Ryan on Oct 12, 2009

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Description 

#2 in old Bloom, #5 in new Bloom. This is a long route with variety. It begins in the tight hands crack just outside and to the right of the inside of the dihedral. Climb though good hands with many opportunities to stem left. After good hands it gets wide for brief section and pops you into clean cupped hands in white rock which widen ever so slightly to the top. The color change serves as a nice half-way mark if you're a little pumped. This is a long route and requires more than you can get out of a 70m. Take a couple ropes and a rest in the middle.

Location 

First line left of Marshmallow Safari. Round the corner and you're below a large, left-facing corner.

Protection 

Many #2s and #3s BD for the top. The initial section will take #1s and .75s. Some will argue you should take several #4s or even a #5. But those people have eyes only for wide cracks and can't see the beauty of protecting deep within those wide sections. Couple of bolts at the top.


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By slim
Administrator
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

duncan,

is this the first or second line to the left of marshmallow safari? for some reason i thought there was a route called lift kit just to the left of MS (steep off fingers, merges into an overhanging hands and bigger corner).

thanks for the addition!
By Duncan P Ryan
Oct 13, 2009

you know, now i look more carefully, bloom says there's about 400 ft between #4 and MS.