Unknown  5.11-

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Consensus:  5.11- [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Duncan P Ryan on Oct 12, 2009 You & This Route Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

#2 in old Bloom, #5 in new Bloom. This is a long route with variety. It begins in the tight hands crack just outside and to the right of the inside of the dihedral. Climb though good hands with many opportunities to stem left. After good hands it gets wide for brief section and pops you into clean cupped hands in white rock which widen ever so slightly to the top. The color change serves as a nice half-way mark if you're a little pumped. This is a long route and requires more than you can get out of a 70m. Take a couple ropes and a rest in the middle.

Location 

First line left of Marshmallow Safari. Round the corner and you're below a large, left-facing corner.

Protection 

Many #2s and #3s BD for the top. The initial section will take #1s and .75s. Some will argue you should take several #4s or even a #5. But those people have eyes only for wide cracks and can't see the beauty of protecting deep within those wide sections. Couple of bolts at the top.