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"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide 
4 x 4 
Carbondale Short Bus 
Collision Course 
Country 
Crankcase 
Destination Paris 
Hookers 'n Blow 
Hydraulic Pump 
Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie 
Knobby Tires 
Lift Kit 
Linkage 
Marshmallow Safari 
Minute Lube 
Monster Truck 
Salt-Lake Special 
scout 
Take 10 
Take 5 
Town 
Tranny Trouble 
Unknown 21 - big hands flare 
Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner 
Unknown long hands into wide corner 
Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel 
Unnamed 5.10 - just after turning the corner 
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roog 
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs 
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start 
Unnamed 5.11 R of Variety Pack 
Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start 
Variety Pack 

Unknown long hands into wide corner 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
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Submitted By: Duncan P Ryan on Oct 12, 2009
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Description 

#2 in old Bloom, #5 in new Bloom. This is a long route with variety. It begins in the tight hands crack just outside and to the right of the inside of the dihedral. Climb though good hands with many opportunities to stem left. After good hands it gets wide for brief section and pops you into clean cupped hands in white rock which widen ever so slightly to the top. The color change serves as a nice half-way mark if you're a little pumped. This is a long route and requires more than you can get out of a 70m. Take a couple ropes and a rest in the middle.


Location 

First line left of Marshmallow Safari. Round the corner and you're below a large, left-facing corner.


Protection 

Many #2s and #3s BD for the top. The initial section will take #1s and .75s. Some will argue you should take several #4s or even a #5. But those people have eyes only for wide cracks and can't see the beauty of protecting deep within those wide sections. Couple of bolts at the top.



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By slim
Administrator
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

duncan,

is this the first or second line to the left of marshmallow safari? for some reason i thought there was a route called lift kit just to the left of MS (steep off fingers, merges into an overhanging hands and bigger corner).

thanks for the addition!

By Duncan P Ryan
Oct 13, 2009

you know, now i look more carefully, bloom says there's about 400 ft between #4 and MS.