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 ADVANCED
The Warlock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dragon's Back T 
Flying Warlocks T 
Ghostbumps T,S 
Howling, The T,S 
Imaginary Voyage T 
Planet Waves T 
Romantic Warrior T 
Sarcophagus, The T 
Sea of Tranquility T 
South Face T 
Spell, The T 
Titanic, The T 
Unknown T,S 

Unknown 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 253
Submitted By: Murf on Aug 5, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: I believe this is the route posted here, looks pre...

Description 

This is a mixed route located just above and right of the Dragon's Back. Do a reachy move off a boulder clipping a bolt. Pass the second bolt on somewhat flaky rock (crux) by a hard pull with poor feet. Continue past two more bolts to a knobby face with a crack that leans right. Follow the crack to where it ends, then move up through two more bolts. From the last bolt, finish up and left, looking for the anchor which is oddly located on a face to the left of the main summit area.

While not a bad route, this one needs some cleaning up.

Location 

The best way to find the route is to circle up and right from the base of Dragonsback Area/Imaginary Voyage area. It is about 45' uphill.

Protection 

6 bolts, a long sling or two for knobs, and a few pieces in the purple to red Camalot range.

Rap almost exactly 100' to your shoes.


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